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Author Topic: Guitar polish for OMV-03SP  (Read 1847 times)
gary0319
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« on: September 13, 2007, 03:45:30 PM »

This seems pretty basic, but I couldn't find a concise thread on it in my searches.

I have a new OMV-03SP on it's way from  Dave at Guitar Adoptions. It will be my first satin finish Larrivee and I'm wondering what, if any, guitar polish to use on it. I used to own a 16 series Martin with satin back and sides and used the Martin brand guitar polish on it with goood results (also works great on gloss). I just thought I'd ask to see if any other preparations would be recommended. I'm not interested in gaining a "polished" look, just a good prep for general cleaning and maintenance.

Thanks

Gary
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rbpicker
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« Reply #1 on: September 13, 2007, 11:29:14 PM »

Gary, I would just use a soft cloth slightly dampened with warm water for general cleaning.  I use naphtha for stubborn spots.  I personally wouldn't use a  polish on a satin finish.

BTW, I just polished my L-03 to a very high gloss using the wet-sanding, polishing method... excellent results.  It looks like a factory hand rubbed finish (but then I prefer a high gloss finish).

RB
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samcatlarr
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« Reply #2 on: September 14, 2007, 12:16:38 AM »

Gary Taylor guitars had a section on polishing in their newsletter and suggested Turtle Wax express shine.  It works well on  both satin and glossy finishes.
Jeff B.
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Hoser Rob
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« Reply #3 on: September 14, 2007, 12:26:07 AM »

ANything that doesn't have silicone will work fine.

Avoid silicone ... if you ever need to do any finish repair or touchup in the future it'll make it about impossible to do right.  Nothing sticks to it.
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jwb
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« Reply #4 on: September 14, 2007, 01:32:07 AM »

Get a bottle of "Preservation Polish" from www.stewmac.com.  I use it on all my guitars - great stuff and no silicone.  My #1 choice...

Justin
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gary0319
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« Reply #5 on: September 14, 2007, 01:34:02 AM »

Jeff,

Do you recall which Taylor newsletter issue it was? I get their Wood & Steel newsletter.

Robb, thanks for the tip on avoiding silicone. RB, good advice. Thanks, Justin

Thanks all,

Gary
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rakalm
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« Reply #6 on: September 14, 2007, 12:19:15 PM »

You can access the Taylor info. online in video form. 
Try this link, it's more detailed than the Wood and Steel version:

http://www.taylorguitars.com/see-hear/


After the link, go to Wood and Steel video extras.  You should find it from there.

 
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gary0319
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« Reply #7 on: September 15, 2007, 01:39:29 AM »

Rakalm,

Thanks for the Taylor video link........you're right, more detailed than the article in Wood & Steel.
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thistle
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« Reply #8 on: September 15, 2007, 08:49:57 AM »

I just read this about Turtle Wax Express:

"Turtle Wax Express Shine Spray Car Wax is the fast, easy way to a Hard Shell Finish. Simply spray-on and wipe off. Enriched with carnauba wax and silicone polymers"

 
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~Lynn
rakalm
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« Reply #9 on: September 15, 2007, 07:36:37 PM »

Wow,

That is scary.  The silicone thing, that is.  I use Martin which says water and natural oils.  Seems to do a nice job, I dampen the cloth instead of applying directly because of the water.  A bit tough to rub out but produces nice results.  See my Custom OMV-03 pictures for results.  For wax, on older instruments I use Trewax (yes, a floor wax, high quality), and you can get it in various colors so you don't get white deposits on your finish.  I would never use this on a new instrument.  Not needed, it was recommended by a mountain dulcimer builder with lotsa expertise.  Some people don't use the boiled (Taylor doesn't mention in video but never use raw linseed oil, use boiled instead) linseed oil either, I have used it successfully for 34 years on the rosewood fretboard of my Guild D40.  Their original instructions (I still have) specified this with the OOOO steel wool just like the Taylor video.  It's (was) cheap and I am still using the quart I bought back then, leaves no residue contrary to what some say.

 

       
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gary0319
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« Reply #10 on: September 15, 2007, 09:38:34 PM »

Scary indeed, it seems strange that Taylor would note not to use Silicone and than recommend a wax with it in it. I'll check out the Turtle Wax the next time I'm in a store that carries it.

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PortHueneme
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« Reply #11 on: September 21, 2007, 06:26:05 PM »

Dave has some great cleaner/wax. He formulated it himself.
I have always used Gibson polish, it came highly recommended by my guitar tech too.
It is formulated for the laquer Gibson finishes, but I like the way it cleans and shines.
It really cuts through the finger prints on my Larrivee sunburst tops (they are beautiful but show every fingerprint).
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samcatlarr
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« Reply #12 on: September 21, 2007, 09:30:51 PM »

There's no mention of silicone on the bottle of Turtle Wax express shine.  I started using it after an article on polishing was featured in Wood & Steel, the Taylor magazine.  I tried it and am happy with it.
Jeff B.
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« Reply #13 on: September 22, 2007, 02:09:09 AM »

Gary,
Taylor article on polish is on page 25 of the Summer 2007 issue, vol 53, "Care & Feeding"
Jeff B.
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gary0319
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« Reply #14 on: September 22, 2007, 12:28:28 PM »

Jeff,
Thanks for Wood & Steel. Ir read the article and viewed the video on their web site. BTW, I also sent an e-mail to Turtle Wax to get some difinitive information on whether the Express Shine product has any Silicone in it. I'll post any resonse I get, if I get one.

Gary
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Tayor 812c (1997)
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« Reply #15 on: September 22, 2007, 05:25:59 PM »

There is one thing about waxes and polishes.  For a "new" instrument, the polish is more for the owner than the guitar. It makes the owner feel good but the polish just sits on the finish until it is wiped off or evaporates.  All you really need is a wet rag.  Of course, I use the polish anyway because it makes me feel like I'm taking good care of my baby L-09.  The only exception is vintage instruments that have for eg. finish checking or some other means for the polish to get to the wood.  In those cases anything with silicone should definitely be avoided. 
Jeff  B.
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canoe65
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« Reply #16 on: September 22, 2007, 05:43:44 PM »

I've got a L-03.  I don't use ANY polish ... just a 'slightly' damp cloth ... and only when necessary.    bigrin
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« Reply #17 on: July 04, 2021, 06:08:36 PM »

Some facts about waxes:
Organic waxes will biodegrade quickly.  for beeswax the time frame is four to six weeks.  The same is true for carnauba.  Then they become acidic which can attack your finish.  This is also true for linseed based fretboard treatment recommendations. 
BTW, the reason Taylor recommends boiled linseed oil as treatment for your ebony fretboard is because linseed oil when dry darkens the wood, this is why many museum furniture pieces look almost black.  Linseed oil also dries to a flexible not-so-fast-film, like rubber.  Linoleum is a good example.  It is made from you guessed it, linseed oil.  so, don't leave a film of linseed on your ebony.  It will slow your neck action if it is a thick coating, unless you like the feel of linoleum on your fretboard.  BTW, Battleship linoleum made during WWII was made from a combination of cork and linseed oil.  Linseed oil 'dries' by oxidation and becomes an acidic film called linoxin, thus the name linoleum, and acidic substances can attack your finish.  Battleship linoleum was BYW edible.  and became a dietary recommendation to sailors in times of extreme hardship! 
The best wax for guitars is microcrystallin wax.  A thousand years from now it will still be microcrystallin wax, it does not decompose.  The choice of fine furniture restorers is Briwax.  Great for guitars too!
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