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Author Topic: Polishing out satin to semi gloss....  (Read 6931 times)
fitness1
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« Reply #40 on: October 21, 2016, 03:53:35 PM »

When I took this in to have the frets reworked, my tech of nearly 20 years mentioned micro mesh polishing pads to me.  They go from about 1000 to 12000 grit and according to him if you start with a 6000 and finish with 12000 you don't even have to buff out.   I would certainly get a second opinion on this before I'd move forward.....he's extremely knowledgeable, but don't take my word for it - hate to see you mess up you finish based on the limited info (may be some "tricks" to make it work best)
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« Reply #41 on: October 21, 2016, 05:22:17 PM »

Jake, I polished my OM40 within a couple weeks of ownership. This is one that I sent you pictures of.  I used wet micro mesh pads, 0000 steel wool and Mcquires Polish.  The trick is to go deep enough into the finish to remove all of the swirls left by the factory orbital sander. They don't show through a matte finish, but sure show up as you are trying to achieve a gloss finish, so you need to get rid of them (without going TOO deep).

Rb
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« Reply #42 on: October 21, 2016, 06:53:18 PM »

Jake, I polished my OM40 within a couple weeks of ownership. This is one that I sent you pictures of.  I used wet micro mesh pads, 0000 steel wool and Mcquires Polish.  The trick is to go deep enough into the finish to remove all of the swirls left by the factory orbital sander. They don't show through a matte finish, but sure show up as you are trying to achieve a gloss finish, so you need to get rid of them (without going TOO deep).

Rb

Thanks ! Yes I appreciate the photos and found the micro mesh pads at Stew Mac
http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Tools_by_Job/Tools_for_Sanding/Micro-Mesh_Soft_Touch_Pads/Reviews/Page6.html#reviews

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Jake Stone | NC

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« Reply #43 on: October 28, 2016, 01:15:41 AM »


So, what is the "flavor of the month" for compounds to polish out after the 0000 steel wool?   I have Meguiars Deep Crystal polish #2 that I've been using to buff out scratches in gloss finish, but the bottle is getting low and wondering if there's something out there now that is preferred.   I have an L-03 Blackwood coming today that may get the treatment.....looks like there's some nice flame hiding under there

I am going to attempt to polish out my OM40 this weekend.

STEP 1)
Wet sand with 1500 or 2000 paper instead of steal wool.

STEP 2)
Meguiar's 2 Mirror Glaze Fine-Cut Cleaner

STEP 3)
Meguiar's 7 Mirror Glaze Show Car Glaze






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Jake Stone | NC

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« Reply #44 on: October 28, 2016, 03:33:33 PM »

I am going to attempt to polish out my OM40 this weekend.

STEP 1)
Wet sand with 1500 or 2000 paper instead of steal wool.

STEP 2)
Meguiar's 2 Mirror Glaze Fine-Cut Cleaner

STEP 3)
Meguiar's 7 Mirror Glaze Show Car Glaze
Make sure you use a sanding pad of some sort not just the paper and I would recommend Meguires #3 for your step 3 instead of the #7 glaze. You should be able to find the #3 at a auto parts store.

Make sure you cover your sound hole so you don't drip any water in there.
Also tape off your bridge, neck to body joint and fingerboard extension.
 


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« Reply #45 on: October 28, 2016, 03:48:55 PM »

Make sure you use a sanding pad of some sort not just the paper and I would recommend Meguires #3 for your step 3 instead of the #7 glaze. You should be able to find the #3 at a auto parts store.

Make sure you cover your sound hole so you don't drip any water in there.
Also tape off your bridge, neck to body joint and fingerboard extension.

Thanks for the tips Mr LV19.

I have a small sanding block about 2"x2",
I was wondering how to properly get the sides /curves?
Or do I do those by hand?


I will check if the #3 is avail. Is it gentler than #7?

Lastly, when appying the polish and compounds... It is suggested to use a Sponge Pad attached to hand drill?
Or just doing by hand an "elbow grease" method?


- Jake
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Jake Stone | NC

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« Reply #46 on: October 28, 2016, 06:37:39 PM »

I would never use a power tool to polish a guitar.  I always do them by hand, you need to "see" what is happening up close.  I start with 4000 Micro Mesh pads and work up to 12000.  Any grit less than that may scratch the wood.  Work small sections instead of entire surfaces.  I use a two stage liquid compound for finishing above that.  Please take your time and you will be pleased with the results.
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« Reply #47 on: October 28, 2016, 09:18:11 PM »

I would never use a power tool to polish a guitar.  I always do them by hand, you need to "see" what is happening up close.  I start with 4000 Micro Mesh pads and work up to 12000.  Any grit less than that may scratch the wood.  Work small sections instead of entire surfaces.  I use a two stage liquid compound for finishing above that.  Please take your time and you will be pleased with the results.

Thanks for clarification on the power tool.

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Jake Stone | NC

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« Reply #48 on: October 29, 2016, 07:31:17 AM »

Thanks for the tips Mr LV19.

I have a small sanding block about 2"x2",
I was wondering how to properly get the sides /curves?
Or do I do those by hand?


I will check if the #3 is avail. Is it gentler than #7?

Lastly, when appying the polish and compounds... It is suggested to use a Sponge Pad attached to hand drill?
Or just doing by hand an "elbow grease" method?

- Jake

Make your own custom sanding blocks in any shape that makes it easy to fit and sand/polish whatever curve or tight spot you have to polish.  Buy the thickest sheet of dense foam pink insulation you can find and cut the blocks from it with an exacto knife.  Attach wet/dry sand paper to your Styrofoam "sanding blocks" with double-sided tape.  One sheet of this Styrofoam will last you a lifetime.

By the way, the micro-mesh grit size designations are not equivalent or directly comparable to the "P" grit designations often used for most sandpapers and abrasives.  For example, the micro-mesh grit designated "3200" (yellow) is approximately equivalent or slightly finer than P2500 sandpaper.  The micro-mesh designation of "1500" (rust color) is approximately equal to P600 sandpaper.  You wouldn't want to sand/polish to a P1000 wet/dry 3M sandpaper stage then follow up with a micro-mesh "1500" pad for example.  If you did, you would be regressing your polishing to a duller stage than you had already achieved.  Just something to be aware of.   I have attached a chart that I got from the Micro-Mesh website that clearly shows these relationships.

Click on the chart to make it big enough to read.
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« Reply #49 on: October 29, 2016, 02:50:50 PM »

Great stuff L07. I'd run across the chart before, but it was good to have a refresher of how much those dang numbers shift from one sanding medium to another. The sanding pad idea is a great suggestion.

I'm strongly tempted to have at my satin OOV-03 but frankly I don't really have to have a perfectly flat shiny finish. After two years of use I see there are some areas where the surface has been burnished to a high sheen which makes the color deeper. That's what I'd like to see since it's the satin haze that's always bothered me about it.

Guessing that the polishing pastes alone would do that without the sanding pads or fine steel wool?
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« Reply #50 on: October 29, 2016, 04:09:33 PM »

I'm strongly tempted to have at my satin OOV-03 but frankly I don't really have to have a perfectly flat shiny finish. After two years of use I see there are some areas where the surface has been burnished to a high sheen which makes the color deeper. That's what I'd like to see since it's the satin haze that's always bothered me about it.

Guessing that the polishing pastes alone would do that without the sanding pads or fine steel wool?

Ya.. I wonder the same thing. The Satin finish is very smooth on my OM40.
But I do feel a little abrasiveness.

Thinking of very lightly wet sanding with 1500 or 2000 grit.

Just to totally smooth it out.

Then polish.
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Jake Stone | NC

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« Reply #51 on: October 29, 2016, 09:47:41 PM »

Jake here - In Middle of my OM-40 make over.

The 1500 Grit Wet Paper worked great!
Worked on back for about 1 hour... Lightly wet sanding.
No pressure just letting the block do the work.
It is now "smooth as a baby's butt"!

After Wet Sanding - Before Polishing







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Jake Stone | NC

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« Reply #52 on: October 30, 2016, 07:37:30 AM »

If you're going to polish by hand, save yourself a lot of work and go with finer grade papers first. I go up to 2500 grit, which gives a soft gloss. Then, it doesn't require nearly as much work in the polish stage and you're far less likely to see fine scratches from sanding.
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« Reply #53 on: October 30, 2016, 12:54:27 PM »

Thanks Bowie - I just did the 1500 wet.
Then I used Virtuoso polish.
Took a little work for sure...

The newly buffed/polished Guitar looks and feels amazing !

No more "shushing" and "swishing" sound .. yay!

Came out amazing!





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Jake Stone | NC

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« Reply #54 on: November 01, 2016, 02:21:11 AM »

If you're going to polish by hand, save yourself a lot of work and go with finer grade papers first. I go up to 2500 grit, which gives a soft gloss. Then, it doesn't require nearly as much work in the polish stage and you're far less likely to see fine scratches from sanding.

I second that.  I use the same procedure and it works great.
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« Reply #55 on: November 01, 2016, 03:19:29 AM »

I only have one question. With the new thinner Larrivee finish, do you think what finish is left now will protect the wood?


   I don't.
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« Reply #56 on: November 01, 2016, 04:32:15 PM »

I only have one question. With the new thinner Larrivee finish, do you think what finish is left now will protect the wood?


   I don't.

Really?
With all do respect... I think I'm good.

With the procedure I performed? It was so slight and there is no possible way that the wood is not protected.
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Jake Stone | NC

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« Reply #57 on: November 03, 2016, 05:55:07 AM »

If the wet sanding and follow up polishing is all done by hand, I think the chance of going too deep is pretty slim.  However, if polishing/buffing under power, beware!  Burning right through the finish is a possibility.
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"Badges?  We don't need no stinkin' badges."

Became a Shooting Star when I got my 1st guitar.
Back in '66, I was 13 and that was my fix.
Still shooting for stardom after all this time.
If I never make it, I'll still be fine.


 
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« Reply #58 on: November 03, 2016, 09:00:10 PM »

If the wet sanding and follow up polishing is all done by hand, I think the chance of going too deep is pretty slim.  However, if polishing/buffing under power, beware!  Burning right through the finish is a possibility.

Yep... Just a light "shave" to rid the roughness.
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Jake Stone | NC

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« Reply #59 on: November 07, 2016, 09:21:42 PM »

Nice job, Jake!  nice guitar

Polishing them seems to give a 3D depth to them.
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