NGD at least to me

[unclrob]

Just worked a deal to get a mid 70's Guild F40.This guitar looks like a jumbo but it has a 16" lower bout instead of a 17" of a jumbo.Its a maple body that the back and side's have been stained walnut,with an pressed arch back.I have some work to do on it but hey a chance to share.

[bobw]

Looks nice... enjoy her...   make her right....       BobW 

[JOYCEfromNS]

Staying true to your luv of Guilds 

[JohnM2001]

Beauty, don't see too many of those 

[unclrob]

I've seached about 15 sites and called about 15 store's and no one even knew that Guild even made this guitar.Its been in and out of production since 1954 and ended its production in 1977.Maybe I call Gruhn's to see if they know anything.

[ST]

Hey unclrob,

L ks like a fun project. Enjoy.

[Mikeymac]

Congrats, unclrob - that's a real find, especially for a Guild fan like you!

What - no pictures of the back???

[unclrob]

Well the truss rod was turned as far as it would go so its in a clamping rig for the next 2 months as I try to give the neck a new memory.As for no pix of the  back there is no figured maple to see just a dark walnut stain.It is a pressed arch back though.

[cc407]

I admired those arch back Guilds back in the Rhode Island era. Wish I had never traded off my maple/abalone/12 string jumbo! But I needed an electric and an amp for THE BAND.
I wish you well with this one.

[Danny]

Well the truss rod was turned as far as it would go so its in a clamping rig for the next 2 months as I try to give the neck a new memory.As for no pix of the  back there is no figured maple to see just a dark walnut stain.It is a pressed arch back though.

Nice guitar Rob. How about a picture of the neck clamping rig? That interests me a lot.

[unclrob]

Here you go my friend.The guitar will be in the clamps for 8-12 weeks.

[ST]

Hi unclrob,

Will the clamping increase the back bow in the neck (basically pushing/pulling the headstock toward the floor when the guitar is facing up)?

ST

[ducktrapper]

Cool score! Those old Guilds are special. 

[Danny]

Thanks for the pics Rob. Do you elevate the humidity as well?  Of course where you live it's probably plenty humid as is.
Is that a straight length of steel that you clamped it to?

[Mikeymac]

And do you turn the also turn the truss rod some more while it's clamped?

[unclrob]

Duck thanks...

The clamp force's the bow up for more back bow.I also use a small heating pad for about an hour a day.Once the fingerboard appears flat when setting it up I don't turn the clamp any more.I have done about 20 or so guitars with issue such as the Guild.A couple of Martin D12-20's,a few other Martins,a couple of Ovation's and a Gibson or two plus at least 2 other older Guilds.

[L07 Shooting Star]

And do you turn the also turn the truss rod some more while it's clamped?

I don't want to speak for Rob, but if I understand it, you would loosen the truss rod before it is clamped.  The neck has developed a permanent upbow that can no longer be corrected even when the truss rod is tightened to it's maximum.  So he is trying to bring the neck back to straight or even a slight back bow with a completely loose truss rod and no string tension.  That way, the truss rod can once again be used to adjust the relief once the guitar is strung up and tuned to pitch.  Am I correct, Rob?

I had the opposite problem with my MIJ squire strat.  It had developed a permanent back bow when strung to pitch with a completely loosened truss rod.  This was probably caused by me not understanding how truss rods work and overtightening it for many years.  With this "hump" in the middle of the neck, it buzzed badly, and there was no way to correct it with the truss rod.  I had to adjust the action way too high to get rid of the buzzing, and the guitar was almost unplayable.  To correct it, I did the opposite of what Rob is doing.  I supported the neck at both ends, and hung a heavy weight attached to the middle of it (a couple of concrete blocks).  I left it that way for a few months.  During this time, I very carefully and gradually applied heat with a heat gun on a low setting to the entire neck every few days while it was "in traction".  The heat aids in letting the neck bend and also slightly softens the glue between the rosewood fretboard and the neck so that the two surfaces will slide a bit, allowing the fretboard to adjust to the new shape of the neck.  I did this quite a few years ago, and it worked perfectly.  I can now set the action very low and the guitar's truss rod provides the fine tuning that it was designed for. 

[unclrob]

Pretty much nailed it though I don't apply the heat direct to the neck.The heating pad is tented about 6" above and around.Back in the day I use to use a heat lamp but it effected the finish so,heating pad.On tightening the clamp if you over tighten it it will cause damage via an impression in the neck wood.

[unclrob]

OK its been a few months but after all this time I'm fairly sure the truss rod has its own bend in it.So it will live its life as my open "D" guitar.Its at standard pitch and strung with 10's.Plays great with the rite amount of relief and sounds great.At some point I may pull the truss rod and replace it but for now I'm enjoying it as is.

[George]

I don't want to speak for Rob, but if I understand it, you would loosen the truss rod before it is clamped.  The neck has developed a permanent upbow that can no longer be corrected even when the truss rod is tightened to it's maximum.  So he is trying to bring the neck back to straight or even a slight back bow with a completely loose truss rod and no string tension.  That way, the truss rod can once again be used to adjust the relief once the guitar is strung up and tuned to pitch.  Am I correct, Rob?

I had the opposite problem with my MIJ squire strat.  It had developed a permanent back bow when strung to pitch with a completely loosened truss rod.  This was probably caused by me not understanding how truss rods work and overtightening it for many years.  With this "hump" in the middle of the neck, it buzzed badly, and there was no way to correct it with the truss rod.  I had to adjust the action way too high to get rid of the buzzing, and the guitar was almost unplayable.  To correct it, I did the opposite of what Rob is doing.  I supported the neck at both ends, and hung a heavy weight attached to the middle of it (a couple of concrete blocks).  I left it that way for a few months.  During this time, I very carefully and gradually applied heat with a heat gun on a low setting to the entire neck every few days while it was "in traction".  The heat aids in letting the neck bend and also slightly softens the glue between the rosewood fretboard and the neck so that the two surfaces will slide a bit, allowing the fretboard to adjust to the new shape of the neck.  I did this quite a few years ago, and it worked perfectly.  I can now set the action very low and the guitar's truss rod provides the fine tuning that it was designed for. 

I know a guy that did the same thing, but he used an ordinary flat iron and just left it set on low.  He was working on a circa 1940's acoustic that had no truss rod.  I think he may have soaked the neck in some water to rehydrate it first.  I did not get to see the finished product, but the technique was very interesting...

I have a Hartford built F50 maple with an arched back, they are great sounding/playing guitars...