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Author Topic: TonePros tailpiece adjustment/setup  (Read 1948 times)
calvin006
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« on: December 07, 2011, 10:42:40 PM »

Just wondering if anyone has some setup tips for TonePros tailpieces.  I'm planning on setting up my RS4 during a needed string change and, being primarily a Fender person, I'm not that familiar with Tune-o-matic bridges.  I've found some good resources for bridge setup tips, but I'm wondering about the tailpiece because I noticed that the bass side of mine seems higher than the treble side.  Also seem to be a difference in the amount of the threads (less threads on the treble side).  Here's some pictures:




TonePros recommends using their own wrench to make adjustments, which didn't come with my guitar.  I've emailed them about one, but I'm sure I could use something else as long as I'm careful not the scratch/damage the chrome.

Anyway, I guess my main question is what height should this tailpiece be set and should the bass and treble sides be even?
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Barefoot Rob
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« Reply #1 on: December 08, 2011, 04:03:24 AM »

Since its just a stop tail piece its no big deal.I've always conceedered them tension bars.The closer to the body it is the more tension and vice-a-versa.You can use a standard flathead screw driver if I'm not mistaken to raise and lower it.I'm not sure if ithas the locking allen screws so it doesn't come off when changing strings.
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« Reply #2 on: December 08, 2011, 04:34:23 AM »

That makes sense.  Tension feels pretty good, so I guess I'll leave it as is.

It does have the allen screws to hold it in place.  Same on the bridge.  I understand this is a TonePros feature.  Seems like a no brainer... I'm glad someone had some good sense to finish what Gibson couldn't.
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L07 Shooting Star
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« Reply #3 on: December 08, 2011, 05:55:58 AM »

The one recommendation I have seen more than once is to set the tailpiece height so that the strings just barely clear the back of the bridge behind the saddles.  You want it low enough to still get a good string angle, yet you don't want the strings to touch the main bridge body as it supposedly saps some of the tone if they touch.  That might explain why yours is higher on the bass side than the treble side.

Kurt
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Mikeymac
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« Reply #4 on: December 08, 2011, 04:03:51 PM »

The one recommendation I have seen more than once is to set the tailpiece height so that the strings just barely clear the back of the bridge behind the saddles.  You want it low enough to still get a good string angle, yet you don't want the strings to touch the main bridge body as it supposedly saps some of the tone if they touch.  That might explain why yours is higher on the bass side than the treble side.

Kurt

I've also heard this (avoid having the strings touch the back of the tune-o-matic bridge as they come off the saddles and head for the stop tailpiece - it may cause rattling or buzzing).

I will say this - if you're going to raise or lower the stop tailpiece posts, use the LARGEST flathead screwdriver you can find, and then wrap it in a couple layers of a soft cloth before using the screwdriver to turn the posts ... if you just use a bare screwdriver, it will ALWAYS mess up the finish and edges of the post screws...that is some soft metal on those screw heads! (Stew Mac even makes a tool to use for this in order to avoid this problem.)

Here's a link to the tool I'm talking about (called a "Stop Tailpiece Wrench"):

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Special_tools_for_Bridges/Tune-o-Medic_Bridge_and_Tailpiece_Tools.html

Stop Tailpiece Wrench

The Stop Tailpiece Wrench has a thick screwdriver tip recessed into a smooth-walled socket that fits the 1/2" (12.70mm) diameter tailpiece stud snugly. The socket keeps the wrench centered, to protect the stud's plating and avoid accidents that could mar the guitar top. Made of tool steel, with a durable plastic handle. Our thanks to guitar techs Paul Vetticchio and Jerry Barnstable for suggesting this tool.
 
Overall length is 7-3/4" (196.85mm). Inside diameter of the socket is 17/32" (13.49mm). This tool will work on tailpiece studs with 17/32" (13.49mm) maximum diameter.


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« Reply #5 on: December 08, 2011, 04:13:19 PM »

Some players have put the string thru the hole's from the pu side and pulled them over the top of the stop tailpiece then screwed the tailpiece tite to the body as they felt the titer to the body the stop was the more sustain and by wrapping over the top lessened the tension.I have never tried it but I think that is the way Duanne Allman did his.
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« Reply #6 on: December 08, 2011, 04:49:02 PM »

Some players have put the string thru the hole's from the pu side and pulled them over the top of the stop tailpiece then screwed the tailpiece tite to the body as they felt the titer to the body the stop was the more sustain and by wrapping over the top lessened the tension.I have never tried it but I think that is the way Duanne Allman did his.

I keep telling myself I'm going to try this sometime, but I haven't done it yet... (where's the emoticon for "thinkin' 'bout it"...)
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« Reply #7 on: December 08, 2011, 06:21:54 PM »

I keep telling myself I'm going to try this sometime, but I haven't done it yet... (where's the emoticon for "thinkin' 'bout it"...)


These two work for me,    wacko  this one may do also  blush
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JOYCEfromNS
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« Reply #8 on: December 08, 2011, 09:39:51 PM »

Topwrapping increases tension, I'm not a fan of it. I bottomwrap a lot with the strings hitting hard on the bridge, find it reduces tension.
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« Reply #9 on: December 08, 2011, 10:31:49 PM »

Tension is a factor of string gauge, pitch and string length. Some folks feel that they get better sustain on a stop tail piece by screwing it hard to the body. But in a number of cases that results in string contact with the back of the bridge. Top wrapping allows one to screw the tailpiece hard to the body but avoids the bridge contact. Myself I honestly don't hear that much of a difference so on all my stop tail guitars I set the tail piece to a height that it just avoids bridge contact and forget it.
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