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Author Topic: Bettering a Beater  (Read 8565 times)
Danny
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« Reply #20 on: January 16, 2011, 12:45:12 AM »

I could probably borrow one. I have an orbital car polisher that I've never used. Got it as a free gift years ago for buying something else. Can't even remember what now???

I guess that would do a similar thing, albeit probably slower.

Thanks for the input.
  The car polisher is best to use with a foam pad for the very final buffing out with polish. Not really much good for other stuff.
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Barefoot Rob
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« Reply #21 on: January 16, 2011, 03:40:49 AM »

Lots of good info here.You guys are amazing.You do realize that you'll need to take and post pix from start to finish.
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« Reply #22 on: January 16, 2011, 08:32:15 AM »

Lots of good info here.You guys are amazing.You do realize that you'll need to take and post pix from start to finish.

Of course. Best forum on the web. I can do pictures, no problems.
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Ben
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« Reply #23 on: January 16, 2011, 04:53:04 PM »

I could probably borrow one. I have an orbital car polisher that I've never used. Got it as a free gift years ago for buying something else. Can't even remember what now???

I guess that would do a similar thing, albeit probably slower.

Thanks for the input.

You could try it on the flat surfaces but a palm sander with lambswool pad will allow you to do the sides and everything. You can wet sand much of the finish off and polish it back up just like you would polish a satin finish. But like I said, I think the vibration from the sander will do more than anything to open the guitar up. After I polished my OM-03MT it was a difference of night and day. About 8 hours total with the palm sander shaking the living daylights out of the body, kind of like using a tone-rite I suppose only more like extreme makeover guitar edition.
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« Reply #24 on: January 16, 2011, 06:09:07 PM »

I made a start. Biggest hassle was getting the old pickup out. Some serious effort with mole grips to get the end pin out.  The stick on pickup was superglued under the bridge, and wouldn't budge, so I gave up.

Then I drilled through for the UST, and the old one just happened to be exactly on that spot, and the drill popped it off!!

I sanded the bridge to take out the bad scratches (and damage from previously forcing out badly fitting pins). It looks good as new now. I ramped the pin holes, and installed the tusq pins that came put of my larrivee last week.

The new pickup went in fine, and I re-wired it (it was broken before, and now it works.  bigrin). The end pin only just fitted, due to the colossal heel block. However, it's in and it works!!

It's all strung up with Newtone PB 12-54 strings, with a nice low actionfor picking. The new bridge pins have already improved tone I believe. If only the D string would stay in tune!!!

No damage done, everything works, no bad burns from the soldering iron. It's all going a bit too well!!!
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Ben
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« Reply #25 on: January 16, 2011, 06:12:38 PM »

Ben, you can get CA glue releaser from places like LMI, Stew-Mac, etc. Or, you can head down to the ladies make-up aisle and look for acetone based fingernail polish remover and it will do the trick as well.
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« Reply #26 on: January 16, 2011, 06:25:59 PM »

I got it off Jonathan. It was right under the saddle, and the drill popped it off when I drilled through for the UST!! Pure luck.
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Ben
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« Reply #27 on: January 16, 2011, 07:31:20 PM »

Ben, you can get CA glue releaser from places like LMI, Stew-Mac, etc. Or, you can head down to the ladies make-up aisle and look for acetone based fingernail polish remover and it will do the trick as well.
  I also bought a bottle of CA releaser from "Hobby Lobby". Hobby and Arts & Craft stores have several items that are useful for repairing/refinishing guitars.
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« Reply #28 on: January 16, 2011, 08:09:34 PM »

Right, here are some pics, and another question.

Getting the old pickup out was a nightmare, because it was (a) welded on and (b) the endpin jack was just hammered in, rather than screwed on from the outside.  The second pic shows what is left of the old pickup.

My question is the finish.  All of the above info is really useful, but I am one of those weird people who prefer a satin finish to a gloss finish.  Can I achieve a satin finish simply by not polishing it out with auto polish at the end.  So if I do the whole guitar an finish it off with 0000 steel wool, will i get a satin look and feel?  I like a good gloss finish, but poor quality gloss just feels sticky to me.  I pick with a planted pinkie much of the time, and strum with an open palm, so my right hand does make contact with the top quite a bit, and I hate it being 'tacky'.


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Ben
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« Reply #29 on: January 16, 2011, 08:11:30 PM »

a few more

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Ben
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« Reply #30 on: January 16, 2011, 11:56:05 PM »

 You can reduce a gloss finish with 000 steel wool for sure. I suppose 0000 will do about the same.
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« Reply #31 on: January 17, 2011, 03:26:19 AM »

Though not a good idea,if your going to try and satinize the guitar use the 0000 steel wool and go with the grain.I will tell you you won't really be happy with it and it will need to be done again as you will see it glossing up again in spots were your arm rubs and if you anchor your finger to the top it will also gloss there as well.The neck will also have to be re-steel wooled as it to will begin to gloss.The steel wool doesn't remove all that much finish.I have electric players that for some unknown reason never clean there necks and they get sticky,thus the steel wool treatment.
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« Reply #32 on: January 17, 2011, 07:59:50 AM »

Understood.  I guess this is no time to be chicken and avoid the bits that scare me - the guitar will either sound better and look better, or sound better and look like s*$t.  Either way, its a whole lot better than it started, AND i have the bonus of getting a decent but broken pickup to work perfectly.

Did you notice I took no pictures of my awesome neat professional looking soldering skills

Thanks folks
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Ben
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« Reply #33 on: January 17, 2011, 08:18:18 AM »

Ben, I am really curious about the outcome of your little project!!
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« Reply #34 on: January 17, 2011, 08:46:29 AM »

Help guys, I cannot find a suitable polish/wax that I know doesn't have silicone.  None of the descriptions seem to say one way or the other.

What is the problem with silicone anyway?  Will it really do any harm on a dipped in plastic beater?

If there is a specific product you can recommend, do you have a picture of it (i.e. from the t'internet), because everything seems to be branded differently in the UK?  If I can match up the packaging, then I should be OK.
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Ben
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« Reply #35 on: January 17, 2011, 12:48:31 PM »

Help guys, I cannot find a suitable polish/wax that I know doesn't have silicone.  None of the descriptions seem to say one way or the other.

What is the problem with silicone anyway?  Will it really do any harm on a dipped in plastic beater?

If there is a specific product you can recommend, do you have a picture of it (i.e. from the t'internet), because everything seems to be branded differently in the UK?  If I can match up the packaging, then I should be OK.
  On an old Fender I wouldn't worry about silicone much. What are the products you can find? One needs to be a cutting compound, before you use a finish/swirl remover polish.
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« Reply #36 on: January 17, 2011, 12:56:38 PM »

I was looking at this for the initial work,

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Meguiars-Scratch-X-2-0-207ml-Fine-Scratch-remover-/110605805307?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item19c09ea6fb

and this for the polishing - which clearly has silicone in it.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Meguiars-26-Professional-Hi-Tech-Yellow-Wax-Paste-/110568368505?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item19be636979
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Ben
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« Reply #37 on: January 17, 2011, 01:12:23 PM »

   Use the first one for the final swirl remover. That is exactly what its made for.

    DON'T USE THE WAX. You will regret it. Wax on a guitar will be a sticky, smudgy mess.
Find a cutting "COMPOUND".  3M makes cutting compounds and I would think if you can find mequires then 3M products should be available. A medium cutting compound will reduce the scratches after sanding and begin to level and polish things a bit.
       Compounds are widely used to restore car finishes, so you should be able to find some easily.  You can use othe products in between the compound and the swirl remover, but I think you can achieve what you want without those.
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BenF
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« Reply #38 on: January 17, 2011, 01:18:27 PM »

Got you

This one?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Meguiars-Ultra-Cut-Compound-105-Mirror-Glaze-8oz-G220-/110613850560?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item19c11969c0

and then the swirl remover and hard work until it is shiney.
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Ben
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« Reply #39 on: January 17, 2011, 01:39:35 PM »

   Ben I never used that particular one. Just ask any auto parts or better yet a auto paint supplier for some medium cut "compound".
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