Bone bridge pins

Started by unclrob, March 02, 2010, 09:50:27 AM

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Quote from: dependan on March 04, 2010, 12:15:37 PM
  If you don't have them in the way it is described above you will get some weird harmonics and downright buzzing from the string hanging down inside the guitar.
  Also you will destroy the bridge plat or even the bridge itself eventually.
  I like the slotted bridge pin holes idea myself.
Tell more about the slots. I look at the bridge of my L and not sure how that would work.
Chris
Larrivee's '07  L-09 (40th Commemorative); '09 00-03 S.E; '08 P-09
Eastman '07 AC 650-12 Jumbo (NAMM)
Martin   '11 D Mahogany (FSC Golden Era type)
Voyage-Air '10 VAOM-06
-the nylon string-
Goya (Levin) '58 G-30
-dulcimer-
'11 McSpadden

Quote from: cke on March 02, 2010, 02:17:25 PM
NOW I get it. Man this could lead me into a whole new obsession.

I'm always dropping pins and having to hunt for them. Bone is louder than ebony, right?  I've looking at this all wrong :roll

It's not a fair test unless you drop them when they're installed in a guitar.
I don't necessarily subscibe to the statement below, but I like the quote anyway.
"I personally don't think most people could tell the difference in sound between the two. Of course there is the occasional person who can differentiate between the African and English swallow strictly by the variation in sound of wingspeed."
-Unknown

Quote from: cke on March 04, 2010, 12:21:10 PM
Tell more about the slots. I look at the bridge of my L and not sure how that would work.
Your bridge would have to be slotted. It provides a sharper break angle and positive lock of the ball end under the bridge plate.
  Collings Guitars uses this method with slot-less pins. I'll try and find some pics of it later or take some of a bridge I have with ramps and will slot as well soon.

Quote from: dependan on March 04, 2010, 02:04:28 PM
 Your bridge would have to be slotted. It provides a sharper break angle and positive lock of the ball end under the bridge plate.
  Collings Guitars uses this method with slot-less pins. I'll try and find some pics of it later or take some of a bridge I have with ramps and will slot as well soon.
This is a good way to go. You don't need slotted pins, and it doesn't cause your pins and the strings that they hold in place to gouge out your bridge haphazardly.

Quote from: Queequeg on March 04, 2010, 12:39:35 PM
"Of course there is the occasional person who can differentiate between the African and English swallow strictly by the variation in sound of wingspeed."[/i]
-Unknown
I prefer the African Swallow - they hop faster on the ground  :wink:

I subscribe to the fit of the pin in the hole rather to the pin material. A string-ball sitting flush and snug up to the bridgeplate will always provide for maximum performance - I believe un-slotted pins, and slotted bridge holes are the way to go. (all relative to an "as new" bridge plate of course)
"To me...music exists to elevate us as far as possible above everyday life." ~ Gabriel Faure

And of course you can always slot your bridge and turn your slotted pins 180 degrees about, if you have slotted pins you love.

Quote from: AZLiberty on March 05, 2010, 12:03:32 AM
And of course you can always slot your bridge and turn your slotted pins 180 degrees about, if you have slotted pins you love.
I have thought of this also. But I considered that the bone slots may cut into the back side of the bridge, so maybe a 90 degree turn would be better or just fill the slot with some hard resin and sand it smooth.
            I really don't know, I am just sharing my thoughts.

Quote from: dependan on March 05, 2010, 08:29:45 AM
  I have thought of this also. But I considered that the bone slots may cut into the back side of the bridge, so maybe a 90 degree turn would be better or just fill the slot with some hard resin and sand it smooth.
            I really don't know, I am just sharing my thoughts.

It is better to turn them 90 degrees. That way you have the full diameter of the pin acting on the front and rear of the hole.

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