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Author Topic: LSV-11 bridge pins  (Read 2747 times)
zwrdl
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« on: October 26, 2009, 12:54:56 AM »

I've read the threads regarding bridge pins and noted that they mostly revolve around plastic vs ebony, witjh some mention of bone, and the LSV-11 doesn't seem to come up.  

So:  I've got a LSV-11 and I use Thomastik-Infeld 12/54s on it.  I have Larrivee ebony bridge pins.  I was thinking of switching to either walrus jawbone or mammoth ivory.  Has anyone had any experience with these on the LSV-11 in particular?  

As far as I know the Larry uses a 4.1 slotted pin, and I can get those in several materials, but at $80- 110 per set for the ones I'm considering, I'd like a little feedback before I experiment.  I'm looking for a little increase in base and possibly more fullness.  The guitar is about 3 years old, not fully broken in, but heading in the right direction.  Frankly, it sounds pretty darn good the way it is, so any tweaks would probably be minimal, but I do have a little itch to experiment.

I play  fingerstyle Celtic with a pretty light touch, no picks at all.  My action is lowered to a shade over 1/16" from the top of the 12th fret to the bottom of the 6th string with no buzz anywhere and clear sound throughout. (Hey, it's a wonderful guitar..what can I say?)
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Barefoot Rob
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« Reply #1 on: October 26, 2009, 01:43:19 AM »

Try a set of Tusq first there hard like bone and they run under $20 US.I put them on all my guitars as I don't like wood or the plastic and Tusq bridge pin are fake bone type material.
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« Reply #2 on: October 26, 2009, 02:05:22 AM »

zwrdl--

Welcome to the forum.  Congratulations on a great guitar.  Have you had it long?

I switched out the stock pins on my LSV11 to fossilizzed walrus ivory; it's questionable as to whether it altered the tone much, but I think it did up the bass just a pinch (though it could just be wishful listening).

The best thing about the pins, and by the way I got the ones with abalone dots, is that the dots mimic the the fretboard inlay, and the creamy color of the pins goes remarkably well with the golden wheat color of the sitka top and the creamy lighter coloring on the sides which is minimally apparant in the color variations of the rosewood.  I'm tempted to someday change the ebody tuning buttons to a more oval shaped creamy wheat color to continue the custom look, but hey, it looks pretty good as is.

            

I submitted a photo for Larrivee of the month last month which may still be available.  Otherwise, I'll try to post some photos for you, but I hope your a patient person. I'm not too good at that sort of thing.
          
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zwrdl
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« Reply #3 on: October 26, 2009, 09:07:11 PM »

Thanks for the replies.  I've had the guitar for about two and a half years.

If I don't hear someone stating unequivocally that the more expensive bridge pins affect the sound, I doubt I'll spend the money for appearances alone. I like the guitar's looks just fine the way it is (with ebony pins with abalone inlay).    I may try the Tusq, since they're pretty inexpensive, but the fossilized walrus and mammoth with ebony inlays run over $100, depending on which grades are used.   

This guy is referring to Martin, and of course he's in business to sell the pins, but there is a basis at least for comparison.    http://www.maurysmusic.com/bridge_pins_effect_on_tone   

The pins I have in mind are these: 

either   http://www.custominlay.com/detail.aspx?ID=406   or  http://www.custominlay.com/detail.aspx?ID=407  in a 4.1 size with  3mm ebony dots.   But not if the only consideration is appearance. 
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Mr_LV19E
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« Reply #4 on: October 27, 2009, 12:21:03 AM »

Try these curt mangan med-lights (12-54) I found they added a little extra bass to my F-III. For less than $8.00 it's worth a try.
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zwrdl
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« Reply #5 on: October 27, 2009, 12:31:36 AM »

Try these curt mangan med-lights (12-54) I found they added a little extra bass to my F-III. For less than $8.00 it's worth a try.

Thanks.
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« Reply #6 on: October 27, 2009, 12:44:03 AM »

  Strings may be your best bet. Anything else will just add cosmetics. This model is made to sound the way it sounds by the bracing and scale length and minor changes won't change a thing. IMHO
   But strings seem to may a difference in subtle ways. I like to say a LSV-11 is no J-45, but it was never intended to be one.
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zwrdl
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« Reply #7 on: October 27, 2009, 01:22:01 AM »

   I like to say a LSV-11 is no J-45, but it was never intended to be one.

Thank heaven for that.  I had a J-45.  Actually, it was a J-50, but same thing.  Completely different animal.  No, I like the way the Larry sounds.  It's a perfect guitar for the type of music I play.  Just had an idea that a little more overtone or maybe a little--very very little-warming in the base-might subtly improve it.  Probably more of a desire to tinker than anything else.  As for strings, I've tried just about everything, and have settled on  Thomastik-Infeld 12/54's as I mentioned. 

So, I think I'll probably just enjoy it the way it is.  It still hasn't finished opening up.  Although some folks I know who have had one say the wood is so tight that it doesn't mellow much, I find it to be not the case.  It went through radical changes the first year, and still seems to be developing.

So thanks, everyone. 

Play on.   
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« Reply #8 on: October 27, 2009, 12:18:54 PM »

Z--

If you haven't already done so, try the John Pearse mediums on the LSV.  They bring out the bass nicely.  At some point I'll try the T-I you suggest.  You may be able to find some nice FWI pins used at a great price if you're patient.  I have seen them posted for sale here on the forum.  You are right that the LSV11 is beautiful right out of the box.

        DAVE
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« Reply #9 on: October 27, 2009, 04:28:59 PM »

Try these curt mangan med-lights (12-54) I found they added a little extra bass to my F-III. For less than $8.00 it's worth a try.

I use these exclusively and they are great strings (they last as long as coated strings at half the price). Definitely use the Med-Lts; they are pretty much equal to everyone else's Light.

f
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