Bringing out the bass in my OM-03R

[Broadus]

If the action on the OM-03R gets any lower, it'll have Denny Zager's autograph on the back. 

Bill

[jimmyp]

That's one reason(too low action) you don't have enough bass. JP

[Mr_LV19E]

How much more difficult is fretting mediums than lights in your opinion?

Thanks again,
Bill

You asked.  To me it seems mediums are easier to fret.  Just putting mediums on and making no other adjustments (except truss rod, I have found 1/4 turn clockwise on my Larrivees compensates the change from light to medium). Medium strings don't vibrate as far off center with the same attack as lights so they can sit closer to the fingerboard without buzzing. You may be able to have less relief in the neck.

While you have the strings off make sure to remove the saddle and make sure there is nothing in the slot underneath it, and that it is perfectly flat on the bottom. Just because Jim put the bone saddle in doesn't mean the first owner didn't lower the action some. If he did it's possable that he didn't get it perfectly flat.

[tuffythepug]

Bill, don't be afraid to try mediums. I know a lot of people think they will have a harder time with med's but I find that everyone of my guitars plays easier with med's. I don't know why, but maybe it's because you can have your action a little lower with med's.
Changing from lights to mediums will make a far greater difference than changing brands of string.

I'll give you this challenge. Buy a set of EJ17's and put them on, play it for 3 or 4 days to let the brightness wear off and see if you don't find a big difference. If after a week you are not happy with the sound or you are having trouble with playability let me know and I'll send you the money to buy what you were using so you can change them back.

BTW, I don't plan on having to send you money. Thats how sure I am that you will be happy.

   

Now it's my turn to chuckle a little bit.   We've come full circle and arrived back to the first response in this thread where I recommended a string change (to the EJ-17s).  After all the comments and lessons on guitar physics, geometry, and architecture the simplest remedy may be the best.   Certainly a better alternative than re-designing the guitar's guts in my opinion.  I know that people far more knowledgable than I have shaved braces, cut holes in the sides, and done all manner of modifications to their Larrivee guitars but I still prefer mine the way they came from the builder.   If I want a sound that's different from the one that the guitar inherently produces I will buy a different model Larrivee or even a Martin, Gibson, or Taylor or any other guitar that is made to give me the sound I want.
Bottom line, though, I'm glad Broadus found what he was looking for without bringing out the tool box.

[Broadus]

That's one reason(too low action) you don't have enough bass. JP

True enough, except my Eastman is at least as low as my OM-03R. Different guitars, to be sure.

Bill

[Broadus]

You asked.  To me it seems mediums are easier to fret.  Just putting mediums on and making no other adjustments (except truss rod, I have found 1/4 turn clockwise on my Larrivees compensates the change from light to medium). Medium strings don't vibrate as far off center with the same attack as lights so they can sit closer to the fingerboard without buzzing. You may be able to have less relief in the neck.

While you have the strings off make sure to remove the saddle and make sure there is nothing in the slot underneath it, and that it is perfectly flat on the bottom. Just because Jim put the bone saddle in doesn't mean the first owner didn't lower the action some. If he did it's possable that he didn't get it perfectly flat.

Thanks, Roger.

BTW, when I changed from the D'Addarios to the Elixirs, I pulled out the saddle and made sure there was no debris in there. Also, I didn't see anything about the saddle bottom that looked to be a problem. I'll double check it next time.

Bill

[Larrivee4me]

I don't know what they use to verify or measure but according to my favorite luthier shop,  making sure the saddle slot is true is the first step when replacing a saddle or installing a UST.   A minor discrepancy might be missed by a visual check. 

[Mr_LV19E]

I don't know what they use to verify or measure but according to my favorite luthier shop,  making sure the saddle slot is true is the first step when replacing a saddle or installing a UST.   A minor discrepancy might be missed by a visual check. 

Thats a good point. You could check it with dial indicator depth gauge.