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Seagull bridge,bridge plate and top
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Topic: Seagull bridge,bridge plate and top (Read 2630 times)
Daysailer
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Posts: 984
Re: Seagull bridge,bridge plate and top
«
Reply #20 on:
February 24, 2009, 02:15:57 AM »
From the looks of the birdge plate, all the holes seem to be slightly damaged by the string balls.
I am no expert, but with those fingernail marks also, my bet is the plate is made from wood that is too soft.
If its that soft, I also wonder how much sound is being absorbed and lost instead of driving the top?
just my .02 ds
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Danny
Donuts?
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Re: Seagull bridge,bridge plate and top
«
Reply #21 on:
February 24, 2009, 02:24:51 AM »
Quote from: Daysailer on February 24, 2009, 02:15:57 AM
From the looks of the birdge plate, all the holes seem to be slightly damaged by the string balls.
I am no expert, but with those fingernail marks also, my bet is the plate is made from wood that is too soft.
If its that soft, I also wonder how much sound is being absorbed and lost instead of driving the top?
just my .02 ds
Not bad for only 2 cents
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Mr_LV19E
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Posts: 6503
Re: Seagull bridge,bridge plate and top
«
Reply #22 on:
February 24, 2009, 02:50:22 AM »
Quote from: dependan on February 24, 2009, 02:24:51 AM
Not bad for only 2 cents
Very economical.
I'm going to try the oversized bridge pins or bridge pins without slots and slot them myself.
I found some new interesting info
Here
. Scroll down and check out the partially slotted bridge pin idea.
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Roger
"Live simply so that others may simply live"
jeremy3220
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Posts: 4598
Re: Seagull bridge,bridge plate and top
«
Reply #23 on:
February 24, 2009, 02:52:38 AM »
Well the top and the braces are made from soft wood. If it were a type of softwood with a high stiffness to weight ratio it would let the top vibrate more. A dense wood like ebony would be one that would cause the sound loss. The reason hardwoods are used for the bridgeplate is durability. It's said that generally a less dense hardwood bridgeplate like maple will sound brighter than a denser wood like rosewood or ebony. It's the same reason a bridge made of EI rosewood sounds brighter than one from ebony or a spruce top sounds brighter and louder than a mahogany top. The wood with the higher stiffness to weight ratio is going to have less energy loss and produce sound more efficiently.
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Mr_LV19E
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Posts: 6503
Re: Seagull bridge,bridge plate and top
«
Reply #24 on:
February 24, 2009, 03:02:48 AM »
Quote from: jeremy3220 on February 24, 2009, 02:52:38 AM
Well the top and the braces are made from soft wood. If it were a type of softwood with a high stiffness to weight ratio it would let the top vibrate more. A dense wood like ebony would be one that would cause the sound loss. The reason hardwoods are used for the bridgeplate is durability. It's said that generally a less dense hardwood bridgeplate like maple will sound brighter than a denser wood like rosewood or ebony. It's the same reason a bridge made of EI rosewood sounds brighter than one from ebony or a spruce top sounds brighter and louder than a mahogany top. The wood with the higher stiffness to weight ratio is going to have less energy loss and produce sound more efficiently.
Interesting Jeremy, it makes sense.
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Roger
"Live simply so that others may simply live"
Danny
Donuts?
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Posts: 13278
Re: Seagull bridge,bridge plate and top
«
Reply #25 on:
February 24, 2009, 03:10:44 AM »
Quote from: Mr_LV19E on February 24, 2009, 02:50:22 AM
Very economical.
I'm going to try the oversized bridge pins or bridge pins without slots and slot them myself.
I found some new interesting info
Here
. Scroll down and check out the partially slotted bridge pin idea.
I like that link Roger, I'm going to use it on one of my gits. I knew about ramping, but the slot to string size and slotless pins is new to me. And once again you see the warning about the ball causing a buzz if it's not up against the bridge plate.
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Mr_LV19E
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Posts: 6503
Re: Seagull bridge,bridge plate and top
«
Reply #26 on:
March 12, 2009, 06:53:57 PM »
I ordered some ebony pins from LMII and I have to say that when I was pricing the pins I thought they were expensive because I was under the impression the prices were for each one, not so.
1 Set of 6 oversized ebony = $4.55
1 set of 6 ebony with abalone dot = $7.60
1 set of 6 ebony unslotted w/Ab dot = $7.60
plus a couple bone saddle blanks for $3.55 each
I decided to use the unslotted pins and slot the holes instead, it worked out great. I also got my first opportunity to make a compensated bone saddle from a blank. Seeing as it was my first stab at it I decided to use the contour of the original.
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Roger
"Live simply so that others may simply live"
Trinity Guitars
Senior Member
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Posts: 419
Re: Seagull bridge,bridge plate and top
«
Reply #27 on:
March 12, 2009, 09:42:37 PM »
Quote from: Mr_LV19E on February 23, 2009, 02:52:13 AM
Thanks Danny, I always put a bend in the string before putting it through the hole. I also tried the sharp bend you suggest. And I tried turning the pin with the slot facing away.
Thanks Jeremy, all the pins in my guitars are the same size so there was no difference when swapping them. I think I'll try the larger pins but how do I know what size to get? The ones at stewmac just say oversize, how do I know they will be big enough?
Also take a look at this pic. Is this a Maple bridge plate? Is Maple soft enough to put marks into it like this with your fingernail?
Sorry for so many questions and thanks again.
These are GREAT shots! I am going to try your mirror process and see if i can come cloes to the quality of your photos. Just great shots.
Jim Holler
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Jim Holler, Luthier
" What we do in this life will resound throughout eternity"
www.TrinityGuitars.com
Yoyodyne
Senior Member
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Posts: 204
Re: Seagull bridge,bridge plate and top
«
Reply #28 on:
March 13, 2009, 12:12:57 AM »
Yeah, I was blown away by the photo quality too...very cool.
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2008 Larrivée L-03SO (Grevillea Robusta)
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1982 el cheapo (Fairmont) LP copy
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