Larrivee Neck Reset Needed???

[JRS613]

Hi folks.  Jim here.  A newbie and not-as-yet-but-almost Larrivee owner.  I need help on pre-owned Larrivee acoustic.  I hope I'm in the correct board for my questions.

I am looking at purchasing a pre-owned 2002 LV-19E California Edition (Palm Tree headstock inlay).  I haven't had this in my hands yet.  The seller states it to be in good shape with a few small edge dings.  No cracks, no belly bulge.  The frets have been dressed, the body polished and a fresh setup done.  In corresponding with the seller, he states that a straight edge extended off the fretboard DOES hit below the top of the bridge about 3/32".  However, he assures me there is lots of saddle showing and the string break angle is good.  I'm sure you've all figured out my fear - the dreaded, costly neck reset!  Is this enough information to make an informed decision as to whether the instrument needs one?  I've put a link to some photos that I hope are helpful.

Any help you can give would be greatly appreciated as well as any comments on this particular model.  I've done lots of research so I'm quite informed but I thought someone out there in Larrivee Land might actually own one!

https://postimg.cc/gallery/n90zDht

Many thanks!  🍩 🍩 🍩

[unclrob]

If the price is right I wouldn't worry about 3/32 isn't that much get pix of how much is above the top of the bridge.

[B0WIE]

I agree. Too much is made of where a straight edge lands on the bridge, especially considering that it does not account for fretboard ramp and most people don't have the proper tool or knowledge to grade it anyway. I've found that if there's a good amount of saddle showing and the guitar is playable, the neck set is usually fine. When it isn't, the first thing that happens is the saddle gets trimmed down and you can typically spot this in pics.

[mike in lytle]

In corresponding with the seller, he states that a straight edge extended off the fretboard DOES hit below the top of the bridge about 3/32".

I would seriously consider that guitar.
Couple things.... based on "extended off the fretboard"....
1. the end of the fretboard (the "extension") is going to be angled down past the 14th fret (the fretboard ramp). Just happens on older guitars, and isn't a problem. The extension is NOT part of the neck.
2. the measurement as shown is done with a 12 inch rule. The straightedge should be 18 inches minimum, and should be positioned flat along the fretboard ABOVE where the fretboard meets the body (14th fret).

Anyone can correct my observations. I doubt seriously a good straightedge measurement on that guitar would be minus 3/32. Absent measurements of string relief, and action at 12th fret, tough to say.
Mike

[StringPicker6]

Lots of expert answers for you. I think that guitar is an excellent buying opportunity! Let us know if you get it!

[BlueBowman]

I agree with everyone that the straight edge measurement doesn't really mean much by itself (also, many people don't measure properly, as noted above). Current action plus knowing how high the strings are off the top at the bridge is more helpful. But even that doesn't mean much IF the guitar is playable to its current owner. That is the ultimate test in deciding if a reset is needed -- that, and all other set-up options have been exhausted. 

I've observed many guitar players mistakenly thinking a guitar needs a neck reset, when, really, a number of other set-up options would address the issue (for example, a guitar with a huge amount of relief combined with a shorter saddle -- but overly high bridge, which some factories are known for (Martin) -- can lead one to think a guitar needs a neck reset when it actually doesn't; just needs a good set-up and maybe a little bridge shave around the saddle slot to encourage saddle and string leverage).

Nice looking woods on that Larrivee!

[JRS613]

Hey everyone. Can't thank you enough for your comments and advice. I'm mostly an electric player and know my way around a truss rod, action, intonation, etc. But the acoustic guitar world brings with it many other considerations such as saddle heights, fingerboard ramps, belly bulge...this is all new territory for me. So I didn't have any perspective on whether a problem was big or small. You guys have given me the confidence to at least keep the guitar in consideration!

Thanks everyone! Should I leave donuts? Not sure if the protocol. ;-)
     

[StringPicker6]

Thanks for the donuts!
No one here mentioned it yet, but Larrivees are also famous for rarely requiring neck resets due to their high quality solid mahogany necks.

[B0WIE]

FWIW, a neck reset typically has nothing to do with the neck itself or any changes in the neck. It's actually the body collapsing in from string tension. Lightly built guitars so this and I've seen plenty of older Larrivees online that needed a reset, I've just never bought any because I avoid used guitars with low saddles for this reason. A quality guitar will usually require a neck reset at some point because the body is going to slowly flex under decades of string tension. Moving the neck angle doesn't repair the changes in the body, it just compensates.

[Silence Dogood]

Another reason I like lower tunings.  Less pressure on the top and less need of neck resets later on.  My guitar is 23 years old and is structurally like-new.  It's lived tuned down a whole step (and down from there into 432Hz more recently) all its life.