Splintered bridge pins

[unclrob]

Nothing against Matthew or Stew-mac but the alparts stuff is better.You only need the diamond incrusted stuff if your going to work on the stainless steel frets.Also if you look at the pix of the tools you can sometime's find them in local hardware stores for less.I make a lot of the tools I use and I'm always checking estate sale's and garage sale's for older made tools mostley from the 50's and 60's.Much better quality.

[JOYCEfromNS]

mostley from the 50's and 60's.Much better quality.

Like most everything 

[Danny]

Nothing against Matthew or Stew-mac but the alparts stuff is better.You only need the diamond incrusted stuff if your going to work on the stainless steel frets.Also if you look at the pix of the tools you can sometime's find them in local hardware stores for less.I make a lot of the tools I use and I'm always checking estate sale's and garage sale's for older made tools mostley from the 50's and 60's.Much better quality.

Are you talking about nut files?   I thought you used a diamond crowning file. I also have made some nut files from jewelers files, but I only have a few, not all the sizes I need.

[cke]

Like most everything 

Yeah!! Especially the 50's   

[Danny]

  Sometime I would like to take some pics of tools that I find or buy here and there. Some are very old and need to be placed in a vat of thinner for a while and then sharpened or something repaired. Anyway I would much rather use these than most of the new tools available. Especially big box store tools. Though they have their place as well.

  Files are hard to come by that are capable of sharpening cabinet scrapers and other stainless steel items. I have found them at woodworker supply stores though. Some of those Japanese files are truly amazing. I have one that tapers down to about .10 and it will cut your finger quick if you slip. It's great for starting precise nut slots etc. But I think it cost about $35. That is one of the best new tools I have.

[unclrob]

The nut file set I use is the 4pc set that has 2 edge's on each file,ie:6string other side 3 string.I also roll the slot bottom so I don't leave a V shaped bottom.I do use the diamond crowning tool mostly because I have done a bit of stainless steel refretting,which I no longer do{well I will still do a stainless steel refret but only for the right client} because I have yet to meet a client that understands that a refret is like getting a new guitar sorta.

[Danny]

The nut file set I use is the 4pc set that has 2 edge's on each file,ie:6string other side 3 string.I also roll the slot bottom so I don't leave a V shaped bottom.I do use the diamond crowning tool mostly because I have done a bit of stainless steel refretting,which I no longer do{well I will still do a stainless steel refret but only for the right client} because I have yet to meet a client that understands that a refret is like getting a new guitar sorta.

Thanks Rob, I have the 3 N 1 standard crowning file and ruined the medium size on a stainless fret job.  I don't like stainless frets at all.

[ffinke]

Look on Ebay: "ebony bridge pins" will yield a bunch of pins. At these prices I'm starting to think we should all carry 3 or 4 extra sets just for such an occasion.


f

[Flake]

This isnt always so much a factor of the nut itself, but rather the fact that nut slots are often cut with a "V" shaped file. The round string wears in the bottom of the "V" causing it to get lower. Once it is at the bottom of the "V" it doesnt move too much. Today some makers (including ourselves) are switching over to "U" shaped files. Stewart mcdonald makes a get set of individual gauge round bottom files. They make a really nice nut slot that doesnt get lower.

The tusq product is nice, but expensive.

Matthew-
     Seems to me that the harder the material-the longer it takes to wear it down.  I have never worn a nut made of bone down to where I got fret buzz @ the first fret but with Tusq or a lesser plastic I have.  In time a bone nut will wear too but it takes a whole lot longer.  I applaud your switching to round bottom files (I use the Stew Mac set on my Larrivee's) but given the price of Tusq nuts and saddles I still think bone is a better material.  Having said that-I know you have stated your Tusq usage decision has to do with your considering it has a superior tone when using undersaddle pickups but if you look at a Tusq saddle you can sometimes see visible wear between string changes. 

[AZLiberty]

Look on Ebay: "ebony bridge pins" will yield a bunch of pins. At these prices I'm starting to think we should all carry 3 or 4 extra sets just for such an occasion.


f

Don't.  Most e-bay sellers don't have any clue what size pins they are selling, and most won't fit a Larrivee.  Get your pins from Lmii or Stewmac.

[ffinke]

Don't.  Most e-bay sellers don't have any clue what size pins they are selling, and most won't fit a Larrivee.  Get your pins from Lmii or Stewmac.

Sage advice, AZ. There are so many varieties you must know what you are looking for re: size, taper, groove, etc.

f

[Danny]

Matthew-
     Seems to me that the harder the material-the longer it takes to wear it down.  I have never worn a nut made of bone down to where I got fret buzz @ the first fret but with Tusq or a lesser plastic I have.  In time a bone nut will wear too but it takes a whole lot longer.  I applaud your switching to round bottom files (I use the Stew Mac set on my Larrivee's) but given the price of Tusq nuts and saddles I still think bone is a better material.  Having said that-I know you have stated your Tusq usage decision has to do with your considering it has a superior tone when using undersaddle pickups but if you look at a Tusq saddle you can sometimes see visible wear between string changes. 

Tusq saddles are a breeze to change out and cheap. It's the nut that can cause some trouble when you need to remove it and there is gloss overspray on the nut and under it. Or too much C A glue and it chips out a chunk of polyester finish/ebony. Then it's a minor change out becoming a major refinish to make it look right again.
      Fortunately most nuts come off easily and there are those around here willing to offer help in getting tough ones off without damaging the headstock.

[Zohn]

 Thanks Rob, I have the 3 N 1 standard crowning file and ruined the medium size on a stainless fret job.  I don't like stainless frets at all.

They are somewhat harder to work (and on tools) but some folks use stainless frets and swear by them - it depends how you look at it:
it is very unlikely you'll ever need to re-fret and maintain stainless frets once they're done anyway; - at least not half as many times as with regular fret material.

From Brian Kimsey's web page on frets:

I also do stainless steel frets on both guitars and mandolins (thin-wire).   They can make some guitars a hair brighter but for the most part, there aren't really any downsides.  SS will last pretty much forever.  It's a little harder on tools and takes a little more care for installation.

[frankhond]

My strings eat tusq pins for breakfast. I just change them to bone when they wear out, no problem after that. My ebony pins have been fine so far.

Tusq maybe "approximates the properties of ivory" but I suspect they mean the colour. It sure behaves like plastic. Sounds good as bridge material on some guitars though.

[BenF]

My strings eat tusq pins for breakfast. I just change them to bone when they wear out, no problem after that. My ebony pins have been fine so far.

Tusq maybe "approximates the properties of ivory" but I suspect they mean the colour. It sure behaves like plastic. Sounds good as bridge material on some guitars though.

You just need to hold and jangle together a set of tusq pins and bone pins to hear the difference in weight and sound they make.  I would agree that tusq is more like bone than ebony in my experience, but you can't beat a set of bone or ivory pins for looks, sound and longevity.

[Danny]

   I like bone pins and there is a set on my F4. But I never heard any difference in sound, if they do improve tone it must be a very small change over tusq. I think they look way better though with abalone dots.

[BenF]

Danny, I got a notable improvement in sustain when i changed from tusq to bone on my FIII, and I wasn't expecting more than an improved aesthetic.  Maybe they just fitted better, or maybe it was ramping the bridge slightly to seat them properly, but it was noticeable.

[Danny]

Danny, I got a notable improvement in sustain when i changed from tusq to bone on my FIII, and I wasn't expecting more than an improved aesthetic.  Maybe they just fitted better, or maybe it was ramping the bridge slightly to seat them properly, but it was noticeable.

Yea, even setting the string nut in properly will change things a lot.

Here is a pic of my bone pins, not the best pic but the look is there.