Nut slots....how deep?

Started by vibrolux66, June 24, 2010, 02:10:18 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

I've recently been availing myself of info on basic setup procedures, action and relief measurements, etc. so that I can more effectively make minor adjustments to my guitar. I notice that a lot of folks on the forum point to Brian Kimsey's very helpful website (great site BTW, check it out if you haven't already).   http://www.bryankimsey.com/setup/index.htm

According to Brian, "properly cut" nut slots should be cut shallow enough so that the three thickest strings stick out partly above the surface of the nut, with the three treble strings just barely sitting fully in their slots, flush with the surface of the nut. Not sure if this is gospel but I've seen it in more than one place.

On my D-03, the low E string sticks up above the nut as I just described (about 25 percent of the string is outside of the slot), and the A sits a little below flush with the top of the nut (a small amount of space between the top of the string and the nut surface), but the other four strings all sit pretty deeply in their slots, some of them as much as a millimeter or more deep.

To my knowledge my guitar's nut hasn't been modified from the factory (I'm not the orig owner), and it's in too good of shape for the slots to have likely worn down. So maybe this is normal from the factory??? Does it matter much either way?

How about all you other Larrivee owners? What do your nuts look like? (pause for the snickering to stop)  :bgrin:

Cheers,
Don
- - - - -

"There's no one to beat you, no one to defeat you, 'cept the thoughts of yourself feeling bad."

-Z

The depth is set by the height of the string over the first fret.  Look at Frank Ford's  www.frets.com pages on how to set the nut slots.

Ed

 OK here goes,how much space is there between the the low E and the first fret?There should be about a credit card or less of space.If theres less then you need to have the nut filled and recut or replaced.As for relief you want about a business card worth of space at the 7 fret.If you still have a problem I would suggest getting it to a tech you trust.
A REPAIRPERSON,Barefoot Rob gone to a better place
OM03PA
Favorite saying
 OB LA DE OB LA DA,LIFE GOES ON---BRA,It is what it is,You just gotta deal it,
One By One The Penguins Steal My Sanity, Keith and Barefoot Rob on youtube
Still unclrob
#19
12 people ignoring me,so cool
rpjguitarworks
Call PM me I may be able to help

Quote from: vibrolux66 on June 24, 2010, 02:10:18 PM
According to Brian, "properly cut" nut slots should be cut shallow enough so that the three thickest strings stick out partly above the surface of the nut, with the three treble strings just barely sitting fully in their slots, flush with the surface of the nut. Not sure if this is gospel but I've seen it in more than one place.

I don't know why he would be addressing the top of the nut (other that to make it pretty); like unclrob says, it's the space BELOW the string that matters, the distance between the bottom of the string and the top of the first fret. Of course, the string must not bind in the slot or this can lead to tuning issues.

I agree with Rob on everything except when to go see a tech you trust - do that first to keep 'em in business.

f
Larrivee L-03 w/Gotoh 381 tuners (African Mahogany/Sitka)
Collings OM2Hc (EIR/Sitka)
Schenk Ophirio (Sapele/Cedar)
Bourgeois 00 Custom (Mahogany/It. Spruce)

Quote from: ffinke on June 24, 2010, 03:41:25 PM
I don't know why he would be addressing the top of the nut (other that to make it pretty);
f

I believe he is stating in the context of making a new nut from a blank, it being part of the finishing touches.  After all, who wants a 1" tall block of bone with grooves that make it look like a comb.
Roger


"Live simply so that others may simply live"

Yeah, it is very much personal preference how high the top of the nut should be. As said by others, the distance between the bottom of each string and the top of the first fret is most important for a playable guitar.

:ohmy: On this point Rob - I over-cut the slot on the D-string of one of my guits  :blush: and find it difficult to fill with superglue/bone dust/baking soda. Have you or some other folk got the correct formula - what measures, how long before re-cutting etc.? I'm using a piece of paper as a temporary filler, and will attempt a proper fill with the next string-change - hey!!  1 out of 18 slots ain't too bad or what?
Thanx
"To me...music exists to elevate us as far as possible above everyday life." ~ Gabriel Faure

Tape off both sides of the nut,fill with bone dust or baking soda to the top.Remove any extra dust that might have fallen down.With liquid supperglue add a drop.Let set for about 20 min.,file to correct depth.
A REPAIRPERSON,Barefoot Rob gone to a better place
OM03PA
Favorite saying
 OB LA DE OB LA DA,LIFE GOES ON---BRA,It is what it is,You just gotta deal it,
One By One The Penguins Steal My Sanity, Keith and Barefoot Rob on youtube
Still unclrob
#19
12 people ignoring me,so cool
rpjguitarworks
Call PM me I may be able to help

Did that - ok maybe didn't wait 20min. and I obviously file too much out of the slot each time...

Thanx Bud!
"To me...music exists to elevate us as far as possible above everyday life." ~ Gabriel Faure

For a really helpful note on a depth gauges for setting nut slot depth have a look at Jim Hollers instructions on my thread on this site titled "nut files?".  Also, I read on another forum a thread about the importance of getting the proper vertical angle for the nut slot to aid the intonation.  The main drift of this thread was that the nut slot should be cut at slight vertical angle so that the string mainly contacted the edge of the nut on the fret side.  I did this recently as I was working on setting up a nut and it really helped a lot.  Perhaps some of our members who are techs could comment more clearly on this issue about the vertical angle of the nut slot.
Dave
I love those older Canadian made Larrivees!

Thanks for the comments.....and Webberink that's a good point about the vertical angle of the slot (horiz actually).....I've seen talk of intonation adjustments at the nut so maybe this plays into it. I'd also be curious what techs say on this point. I need to read the Jim Holler article referenced above......
- - - - -

"There's no one to beat you, no one to defeat you, 'cept the thoughts of yourself feeling bad."

-Z

I have nothing helpful to add, except, getting it right makes such a difference!  I recently lowered the action on my 00-03, and wondered why I was having problems fretting bar F. I compared to my L-09 with identical action - and discovered the height at the nut was significantly higher. I had it lowered, and WOW! It made the action quite silky!

I know I should have done it the other way around, but it worked out great :guitar
Chris
Larrivee's '07  L-09 (40th Commemorative); '09 00-03 S.E; '08 P-09
Eastman '07 AC 650-12 Jumbo (NAMM)
Martin   '11 D Mahogany (FSC Golden Era type)
Voyage-Air '10 VAOM-06
-the nylon string-
Goya (Levin) '58 G-30
-dulcimer-
'11 McSpadden

Quote from: cke on July 13, 2010, 06:03:11 PM
I have nothing helpful to add, except, getting it right makes such a difference!  I recently lowered the action on my 00-03, and wondered why I was having problems fretting bar F. I compared to my L-09 with identical action - and discovered the height at the nut was significantly higher. I had it lowered, and WOW! It made the action quite silky!

I know I should have done it the other way around, but it worked out great :guitar
Chris, isn't it ironic how some perceive a high action of a specific guitar as a general issue with that builder? I used to regard Larrivees as "difficult to play" guitars until I took the step and set them up properly to my personal liking. What a deliverance!!
:nanadance :nana_guitar
"To me...music exists to elevate us as far as possible above everyday life." ~ Gabriel Faure

Powered by EzPortal