Upgrade the Beater?

Started by ncognito, April 19, 2009, 06:30:59 PM

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I'm debating whether to upgrade this beater I picked up for next to nothin' at an antiques mall last summer so why not help me decide.  It's probably made in Japan and appears to be a knock-off of an old Gibson OM.  It's got a false fret (there may be a more precise designation?) just below the nut.  The saddle is flimsy plastic, the top is solid spruce, back and sides are laminate rosewood, neck is round, wide and too chunky for me to play for any length of time, and the tuners require significant wrestling effort, but this thing really has some tone character.  I brought it to this shop for an opinion.  The guy said it wasn't worth the money I'd need to invest in his time and the parts (I'm considering bone nut and saddle, and tuner upgrades with set up), but the thing is he wouldn't even take a sec to try it.  Anyway, there's someone else whose fees are gernerally more to my liking, and whose preconceived status notions probably aren't so biased.  I'm thinking that for around two hundred dollars (and I've only got $40 into it counting new strings) that it would sound even better and play more easily.  It's something I wouldn't have to worry about dinggin' up for using outside or couch playing.  We had a bunch of people over yesterday; it got used quite a bit which is what got me to thinking.  I know I could likely find something comperable used for around the same money, but I hate to throw it out considering it might have more potential that can't be realised in its present state.  The other option is to leave it as it is.  I can't help but wonder what its capable of. 

           DAVE   
-Larrivee LSV11e (sadly sold))
-Lowden S10c
-Taylor 455ce L7
-Guild D40 (donated to science due to terminal      Onthevergeofimplosionitis)
-Brian Fry Custim 000 in the works

I ended up paying $181 when all was said and done to have the crack in the bout and the crack down the fretboard fixed in the old S&P Maple. This included making it pretty and the setup, all that good stuff. I'd probably be lucky to get that in cash,lol.

That being said, it gets out because it's already banged about. I can let my husband play it. Even Gabriel. No way either is touching any of the other guitars.

I'd say go for it. Plenty of folks would pay $200 for a beater anyhow, you know?

holly
"Needs more cowbell."

http://www.artfire.com/users/goatmountainarts
15% discount for Larrivee Forum Members (enter Larrivee coupon code at checkout)
Handmade soap and stuff.

I learned something today and it seems the best way to upgrade the beater is get a set of nauticles installed.
If it sounds good, it is good.


   Dave, how does it sound, as is? Could it be an old Tak? They made alot of exact copies of Martin & Gibsons around the 70's. And is it worth putting the $ into?
    Jeff  :guitar
'11 Martin OM18V Engelmann Custom
'11 Martin D-18 Adirondack Custom
'12 Martin MFG OM-35 Custom
'07 Larrivee OOO-60(Trinity Guitars)
'13 Larrivee OM-03 "Exotic"RW Custom(Oxnard C.S.)
'10 L.Canteri OO1JP Custom(IS/IT.WALNUT)


So it seems I have come to doubt, all that I once held as true

Quote from: BluesMan1 on April 19, 2009, 07:14:52 PM
   Dave, how does it sound, as is? Could it be an old Tak? They made alot of exact copies of Martin & Gibsons around the 70's. And is it worth putting the $ into?
    Jeff  :guitar

Jeff--

It has no identification on it anywhere that I can see.  If I get a chance I'll post some photos.

         DAVE
-Larrivee LSV11e (sadly sold))
-Lowden S10c
-Taylor 455ce L7
-Guild D40 (donated to science due to terminal      Onthevergeofimplosionitis)
-Brian Fry Custim 000 in the works

Quote from: bearsville0 on April 19, 2009, 07:14:18 PM
I learned something today and it seems the best way to upgrade the beater is get a set of nauticles installed.

Bearsville--

Yeah, then I wouldn't have to worry about salt damage if I took it to the beach.   :whistling:

         DAVE
-Larrivee LSV11e (sadly sold))
-Lowden S10c
-Taylor 455ce L7
-Guild D40 (donated to science due to terminal      Onthevergeofimplosionitis)
-Brian Fry Custim 000 in the works

Quote from: strawintogold on April 19, 2009, 06:57:44 PM
I ended up paying $181 when all was said and done to have the crack in the bout and the crack down the fretboard fixed in the old S&P Maple. This included making it pretty and the setup, all that good stuff. I'd probably be lucky to get that in cash,lol.

That being said, it gets out because it's already banged about. I can let my husband play it. Even Gabriel. No way either is touching any of the other guitars.

I'd say go for it. Plenty of folks would pay $200 for a beater anyhow, you know?

holly

Holly--

Good point.  Thanks.

       DAVE
-Larrivee LSV11e (sadly sold))
-Lowden S10c
-Taylor 455ce L7
-Guild D40 (donated to science due to terminal      Onthevergeofimplosionitis)
-Brian Fry Custim 000 in the works

Why not have a bash at it yourself?  If it has a zero fret, then surely (forgive me if I am wrong) then the material the nut is made from is irrelevant, so that is a luthier only part ruled out.  A bone saddle, new tuners and a general set up could be done with the minimum of investment in tools and materials, and would make a successful outcome even more rewarding.

Just a thought.
Ben
2009 FIII LS-03RHB #5

http://www.youtube.com/user/1978BenF

Ben--

I'll give it some thought.  What tools would I need?  Are there different fret files for different fret sizes and materials?  Would I get a pre-slotted saddle and sand the bottom (with what tool)?  I have a friend I might be able to convince who could give me guidance. 

         DAVE
-Larrivee LSV11e (sadly sold))
-Lowden S10c
-Taylor 455ce L7
-Guild D40 (donated to science due to terminal      Onthevergeofimplosionitis)
-Brian Fry Custim 000 in the works

Dave, if it needs to be re-fretted you couild spend me loot in just the tools. I bought a basic fretting kit that was about $170 bucks. The crowning file alone is about $70 bucks.Then there was the nut file set which I think was about $70 bucks. The rest of the files and such I purchased at a flea market.

As far as sanding the saddle, you just need an old piece of granite tile or some other perfectly flat and stable surface to tack glue some sandpaper to, Then you just run the saddle bak back and forth over it to reduce the height. Re-fretting is harder than you might think to get it right!

Quote from: ncognito on April 20, 2009, 07:15:49 AM
Ben--

I'll give it some thought.  What tools would I need?  Are there different fret files for different fret sizes and materials?  Would I get a pre-slotted saddle and sand the bottom (with what tool)?  I have a friend I might be able to convince who could give me guidance. 

         DAVE

I got my Larrivee bone saddle from Bob Colosi.  He says on his site that he will copy the old one for you if you send him it, if it isn't on his list of std ones.  He will make one fractionally larger, so you can sand it to size.  It would probably be in the $25 region.  All you need is patience and sand paper.
Ben
2009 FIII LS-03RHB #5

http://www.youtube.com/user/1978BenF

I take the opportunity to practice a setup as well.
As far as a beater goes, I believe you play as good a beater as you can.
If you are used to a good guitar you won't be happy with a piece of junk.
In my mind a beater is more of a guitar that I don't have an emotional attachment too as well as one I can replace.
I have a old Applause (Ovation, under model) it plays well and has a great sound. I know I would have no problem replacing it if something happened to it.
I take care with it, but do take it places I would not consider taking an "A" guitar.
I also use my Baby T. as a take anywhere guitar, it is easily replaced from G.C. or ebay.
SD-60 SBT
O-50 TSB
OM-03 Koa
D-09 12 string
Gibson-J50
Gibson Blues King
A gaggle of ukes

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