OM-02 Neck Reset

Started by Gar_206, February 14, 2026, 06:22:43 PM

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I won't speak for the previous poster but I wanted to clarify that Larrivee warranties are limited to the original owner. They used to offer an out-of -warranty repair service (paid) but last I've heard they aren't able to accommodate non-warranty repairs the way they used to. You'd need to contact them for the current status.

Quote from: Gar_206 on February 17, 2026, 10:41:50 PMgtrplayer,
Larrivee repaired a guitar you bought second-hand? You sent it to them? Thanks.


  The guitar was bought from a Larrivee vendor however the issue showed soon after purchase. It was my first Larrivee and maybe I just didn't notice. The guitar was playable.  Larrivee, at the time, said humidity or lack of it was perhaps the cause. I'm well aware of humidity issues and always insure my guitars are properly cared for. For whatever the reason they fixed it.
  The issue showed up in another Larrivee of mine.  It was also sent back to the factory and repaired the same way. The other Larrivees I've purchased were free of that issue.   

I've discussed the 12fret hump issue in the past on this forum as others have had the same issue. I've built wood cabinets and furniture and know that wood is a dynamic material.  It moves, sometimes more than you want. Like the Forum III fretboard with sharp fret ends that frequented that model (though an easy fix).



That makes sense regarding the out-of-warranty repair service. I was wondering about the Larrivee repairs because it sounded like gtrplayer was describing used guitars.

Not sure if gtrplayer means sanding down the fretboard and "bridge" instead of saddle? The tech already told me that sanding the bridge doesn't appear to be a good option.

Other than the issue with the neck, the guitar appears practically flawless. There are no signs of over-humidification such corroded tuners or a swollen belly; no loose braces or signs of repair; no signs of dryness like cracks or sunken areas on the top. Perhaps the owner dropped it and caused stress or movement at the neck joint. Perhaps the wood moved after manufacture in the way Bowie suggested. There is no way to know. If I go forward with reset, which I think I will, I will speak more with the tech about assessing the integrity of the wood around the neck joint when he removes the neck.

I bought this one for a good price. The price of reset wouldn't buy much else, not even close to another used Larrivee, so the reset seems like the way to go. Thanks for all the info!

I wasn't going to post but the Larrivee people the best method.I've done it to a few guitars own great results
A REPAIRPERSON,Barefoot Rob gone to a better place
OM03PA
Favorite saying
 OB LA DE OB LA DA,LIFE GOES ON---BRA,It is what it is,You just gotta deal it,
One By One The Penguins Steal My Sanity, Keith and Barefoot Rob on youtube
Still unclrob
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Quote from: Gar_206 on February 18, 2026, 02:12:19 PMThat makes sense regarding the out-of-warranty repair service. I was wondering about the Larrivee repairs because it sounded like gtrplayer was describing used guitars.

Not sure if gtrplayer means sanding down the fretboard and "bridge" instead of saddle? The tech already told me that sanding the bridge doesn't appear to be a good option.



Yes, I meant to say bridge.  Planing down the fretboard and bridge is much cheaper and quicker than a neck reset.  Is it the best way to make a guitar playable?   Maybe/not, but from a manufacturer's standpoint it beats the time and talent to perform a neck reset.

Well, this is definitely something to think about. Is sanding the bridge and fretboard a long-term solution? Will the neck need to be reset anyhow in the near future and the sanded bridge and, I would assume, lower frets need replacing (if the fretboard is sanded) when the neck is reset down the road? Thanks.

Quote from: Gar_206 on February 19, 2026, 01:13:44 PMWell, this is definitely something to think about. Is sanding the bridge and fretboard a long-term solution? Will the neck need to be reset anyhow in the near future and the sanded bridge and, I would assume, lower frets need replacing (if the fretboard is sanded) when the neck is reset down the road? Thanks.

The planing that Larrivee did for me lasted.  I sold one guitar about a year later which was fine and I kept another for at least another four years with no problems.  One would think that wood movement occurs rather quickly after construction and then settles in?  As opposed to years of string tension that changes the neck angle necessitating a neck reset.   I have Larrivees over 20 years with medium strings on some who have never needed a neck reset.

Quote from: gtrplayer on February 19, 2026, 06:37:09 PMOne would think that wood movement occurs rather quickly after construction and then settles in?  As opposed to years of string tension that changes the neck angle necessitating a neck reset.
Both of these things happen. There is an initial settling as well as long term. It's not just in the neck. The bridge is under rotational pressure, the sides are flexing against the top and back, etc. We just tend to notice these things when the guitar becomes difficult to play. Certain expected shifts are built in to the guitar (bridge lift being an example). But, the kind of thing we are talking about is obviously abnormal and we can't predict if it will continue unless we know where the failure was.

 

I am assuming the only way to know where the failure was is to remove the neck for the reset (and even that might not tell the whole story)?

Is the reset the long-term fix? Is planing the bridge the cost cutting fix? Or is planing preferred because there is less chance of causing
damage? Thanks everyone.

the best for me to deside to do a neck reset is to feel around the neck block checking for any issue jf the neck itself isn't moving
A REPAIRPERSON,Barefoot Rob gone to a better place
OM03PA
Favorite saying
 OB LA DE OB LA DA,LIFE GOES ON---BRA,It is what it is,You just gotta deal it,
One By One The Penguins Steal My Sanity, Keith and Barefoot Rob on youtube
Still unclrob
#19
12 people ignoring me,so cool
rpjguitarworks
Call PM me I may be able to help

Quote from: Gar_206 on February 20, 2026, 02:02:32 PMI am assuming the only way to know where the failure was is to remove the neck for the reset (and even that might not tell the whole story)?

Is the reset the long-term fix? Is planing the bridge the cost cutting fix? Or is planing preferred because there is less chance of causing
damage? Thanks everyone.

The best option is a neck reset if you love the guitar and plan to keep it.  A neck reset today could cost anywhere from $400.- $800.  Larrivees have a low resale and if you don't love the guitar is it worth spending that much?  Larrivee OM-02s are very reasonable, you might find something else that's in good shape.

OTOH I'm guessing that planing a guitar is cheaper and quicker than a reset but it has its drawbacks.  Namely the bridge is lowered and requires replacement if the guitar ever needs a reset.  The planed fretboard may also need alterations. 
As I said previously I had two guitars planed down by Larrivee and they were fine in every way.

Manufacturers have set-ups/jigs to easily plane down a fretboard level as factory neck resets are time-consuming and involve the expertise to do so (costly).  I might be mistaken but I thought I read where some luthiers, maybe even Larrivee, cover themselves by making bridges ever so higher to accommodate such planing down if needed.

The best course would be to have it inspected by a luthier and get his thoughts and also some numbers as to cost. 


Quote from: Gar_206 on February 20, 2026, 02:02:32 PMI am assuming the only way to know where the failure was is to remove the neck for the reset (and even that might not tell the whole story)?
Is the reset the long-term fix? Is planing the bridge the cost cutting fix? Or is planing preferred because there is less chance of causing
damage? Thanks everyone.
No, see Rob's comment below.
As far as long-term, if everything is stable, then yes. The only thing it wouldn't fix is if there turned out to be something wrong with one of the woods. That might reveal itself when you take the tension off the neck and try moving it around. If it was exposed to RH issues (which seems most likely) then a reset would be a fix. By the way, if there were obvious signs that it was exposed to high humidity or even direct water damage, then there's potential for it to be somewhat corrected by heat and humidity + clamping. It's not something a lot of people do but I thought I'd throw that out there. I've found that sort of fix can help when the woods moved quickly. Not so much when they took decades to get where they are at.

Quote from: unclrob on February 20, 2026, 03:14:17 PMthe best for me to deside to do a neck reset is to feel around the neck block checking for any issue jf the neck itself isn't moving
^^^This.

This a lot of good info. I will discuss these options with the tech. He did not think planing the bridge was a good option based on the bridge height. I will ask about clamping the neck. Thanks.

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