string lowering and saddle radius

[Waxer]

Considering the saddle has the same radius as the fretboard,  I want to lower the high E through G string only. Not much on the D  through low E. Does it throw off the radius if I sand down the saddle on an angle? Flat side obviously. Normally I would mark the saddle using blue masking tape on a perfectly straight line and sand the flat side to that line. This time I would put the tape on with nothing removed on the  low E end of the saddle and about 2/32 on the high E side than try to sand down to that angle.
If there is another way to lower these strings without much lowering of the A through low E please let me know

[jeremy3220]

Just lower each point to whatever height you want. You know what happens if your saddle doesn't match the fretboard radius...

Nothing.

Using the fretboard radius is a fine starting point but don't get hung up think it has to match. If you want certain strings lower or higher that's fine.

[L07 Shooting Star]

Just lower each point to whatever height you want. You know what happens if your saddle doesn't match the fretboard radius...

Nothing.

Using the fretboard radius is a fine starting point but don't get hung up think it has to match. If you want certain strings lower or higher that's fine.

On most of my setups, I try to get the strings a tiny bit closer to the frets in increments of a couple of thousands as I go from the bass side to the treble side.  I do this at both the nut and the saddle.  My high e at the saddle is usually about 1/32" lower than the bass E.  For an acoustic saddle, I would accomplish it just like you have suggested.

[Waxer]

Ok. I just want to make sure we are taking material off of the bottom of the saddle and not trying to re shape the top. It seems like it would be  difficult to take material off the top for each string.  If we are taking material off the top of the saddle how do we maintain the angles that are in the saddle for compensation.  I hope that's not a stupid question.

[jeremy3220]

Ok. I just want to make sure we are taking material off of the bottom of the saddle and not trying to re shape the top. It seems like it would be  difficult to take material off the top for each string.  If we are taking material off the top of the saddle how do we maintain the angles that are in the saddle for compensation.  I hope that's not a stupid question.

I want to lower the high E through G string only. Not much on the D  through low E.

You can do it either way.

If you want to lower the treble side by sanding the bottom more so on that side, that's fine if that gives you the result you want. Of course you have to maintain a straight line lengthwise across the bottom so this will lower all the strings to some degree. That maybe obvious but if not... You can think of the bass end of the saddle as point b and the treble end as point a. Also remember these points are at the very ends of the saddle not under the two E strings since you should maintain a straight line across the entire bottom of the saddle. If you lower point a some amount and keep point b constant the high e string will be lowered nearly but not quite 100% of the amount point a is lowered. The g string will be lowered slightly more than 50% and the d slightly less than 50%. The low E string will be lowered nearly but slightly more than 0% of that amount. Taking material off the bottom like you suggested will be the easiest solution and should accomplish what you want. 

If you don't want the low E through D lowered at all, you could sand the top of the saddle under each string you want lowered. This would probably be more difficult but certainly doable if you're handy at all. You would maintain the compensation angles by carefully filing each point down using an actual file(rather than sand paper). You should be able to eyeball it. Compensating saddles usually isn't a super precise procedure and if it's a Larrivee or most any factory guitar it came with a drop in saddle, which isn't finely tuned to the guitar anyway. Then you finish by making everything smooth and rounded with fine grit sandpaper; if it's bone you can then use polishing compound to give it that glass smooth look the ladies love.

This also might be a good time to save the current saddle and just make your own out of bone and learn how to compensate them and everything. If you screw up(which is unlikely) you always got the old one. If you just want the trebles generally lower then yes, sanding the bottom will work fine.

[Waxer]

Jeremy and Shooting Star
Thank you both for your instructions. I appreciate the time you took to respond to my question.
Waxer

[L07 Shooting Star]

Jeremy and Shooting Star
Thank you both for your instructions. I appreciate the time you took to respond to my question.
Waxer

For some of the tasks where you would normally need the flatness of a file (as Jeremy suggested for shaping the peak of a saddle), I found these little sanding sticks.  They are cheap and work extremely well for this kind of work.  I use them for shaping nuts and saddles, fret dressing etc.  I would recommend getting both sizes and an assortment of sanding belts with different grits.  I think you can get them at StewMac.  I got mine from Lee Valley Tools here in Edmonton as per the link.  I think I've even seen them in hardware stores, etc.  Highly recommended for all kinds of sanding and shaping tasks.

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=20187&cat=1,42500

Good luck.

Kurt

[hatofthecat]

This also might be a good time to save the current saddle and just make your own out of bone and learn how to compensate them and everything. If you screw up(which is unlikely) you always got the old one.

I'd go with making up a new saddle from a blank that way you'll get exactly what you want, blanks are pretty cheap    ...one other thought, yes the first one was quite lonely...., if you just sand the bottom of the original saddle straight across at an angle that means the ends will "tilted" to one side so its not going to sit in slot in the saddle properly as it'll now be longer than it was across its bottom edge...this means you'll also have to sand the ends down to straighten them up again and might mean any compensation on the saddle is now in the wrong place.  Anyway at least if you screw up a saddle its easily fixed with a new one.... first one I did went in the bin due to over eager use of the sand paper 

Pete

[jeremy3220]

if you just sand the bottom of the original saddle straight across at an angle that means the ends will "tilted" to one side so its not going to sit in slot in the saddle properly as it'll now be longer than it was across its bottom edge...this means you'll also have to sand the ends down to straighten them up again and might mean any compensation on the saddle is now in the wrong place. 

Two good points. This also reminds me, the hardest part of making a new saddle might be fitting it to the saddle slot.  This was harder than I expected, whereas the compensation wasn't.

[Mr_LV19E]

Two good points. This also reminds me, the hardest part of making a new saddle might be fitting it to the saddle slot.  This was harder than I expected, whereas the compensation wasn't.

That's a very good point.  When sanding the side of the saddle you can go from too tight to too loose in a heartbeat. Kind of hard to put material back on.

[Waxer]

I have spent a couple hours being super careful sanding the bottom only to chip the top trying to pry the saddle out. Patience and tears. OK start over. 

[jeremy3220]

I have spent a couple hours being super careful sanding the bottom only to chip the top trying to pry the saddle out. Patience and tears. OK start over. 

I usually use slip joint pliers with a cloth between the saddle and teeth. They also make rubber boots that fit over plier teeth.

[Mr_LV19E]

I have spent a couple hours being super careful sanding the bottom only to chip the top trying to pry the saddle out. Patience and tears. OK start over. 

Bummer, I have a small pair of pliers that have smooth jaws that I grab a hold of the saddle with and pull it straight out.