New Orleans visit upcoming, what to do?

[pennerblue]

Hi all-

I'm heading to New Orleans for a conference in a few weeks.  Its been 10+ years since I've been there.  Got any ideas?  Specifically:
Guitar stores (surprise, surprise...)
Music shops (albums/CDs)
Restaurants
Clubs (live music)
Pubs

I'm a civil/environmental engineer and fortunately am going to get a tour of the levee failure by the Army Corps of Engineers.

Also, no need to say "Pat O'Briens", been there, done that...and paid the price the next morning.
Thanks,
Penner

[flatlander]

Wow. Haven't been since the flood. But I always hit Magazine St. not Bourbon. Get a local rag when you get there and I'm sure the choices of music will be plenty. At least 1 night just wonder around into some places on Magazine and let it flow. (bar hop in other words) And you'll probably have one of those great unplanned times known as bon temp roullete.

[tuffythepug]

Alrighty.  I'm no expert and I don't live there bit I've been there a few times and here's what I like.

Bourbon St. area.....just hop from club to club. most will have live blues or jazz every night.  I like a place called "The Famous Door" on Bourbon Street.  Great music & pretty good vibe.
There's one or two karoaoke places that are wilder than most biker bars I've been in so be prepared for anything. 

Out of the French Quarter / Bourbon Street area there's a place I like that is called the "Rock'N Bowl" which is a combination bowling alley and live music club.  It can be a lot of fun.

Eating....These are my top three choices for good food at real resonable prices

breakfast......"Mothers" on Poydras street.   It's a local institution.  Don't foget to get "debris" on your grits and listen for your name when it's called or they'll just give your food to someone else.

Lunch / Dinner........"Mandinas" is a neighborhood bar and dinnerhouse specializing in Italian and cajun classics.   Blackened catfish, sofshell crab (in season) pasta dishes ...the usual.. Way out on Canal Street in a residential area.   
   "Mulates" which is a bar, resaurant, and dance hall where there's usually a cajun band playing and lots of old and young doing the two step or whatever they call it.    Terrific versions of all the classic New Orleans cajun dishes.  Nothing fancy.  Great food, great drinks, great music.  What more can I say.  It's down closer to the river and the convention area.   It's very old and I do hope it's still there as I love to go there at least a couple of times every time I visit N.O.
Thats my 2 cents.  You'll have a great time.  You almost have to.
I have a good friend who is a life-long resident and he plays locally in a couple of different bands.   One of his bands does something he calls "hillbilly, cajun, surf music" although he prefers blues.  problem is there's about a million blues bands there.....not that many hillbilly,cajun,surf bands I guess.  Let me know when you'll be there and I'll tell you if he's playing somewhere.   It might be interesting. 

Tuffythepug

[pennerblue]

Having been there twice I know there is no shortage of two things: great music and great food. Two of life's richest pleasures.  This is precisely why I'm seeking input...please keep the advice rolling.  I appreciate it, and look forward to the trip.

Can I have a great time in New Orleans?

Yes I can!

[flatlander]

Can I have a great time in New Orleans?

Yes I can!

Have 2 great times. 1 for you and 1 for me. Haven't been in 10 years. Used to go at least once a year when in driving distance from Atl.

[tuffythepug]

Forgot to address the music store /guitar shop question in my earlier post.  They're all over the place of course but I know there's a pretty cool little guitar store across the street from The House of Blues which is an ok place to spend a little time too.   Usually have some pretty good shows at the H O B.
Also, I admit that I can spend a very nice hour or two drinking coffee and eating begnets (spelling ?)
at Cafe DuMonde in the French Quarter.   Jimmy Buffets Cheeseburger in Paradise is in that vicinity too, I think. Oh, man, I'm startin' to wish I was going back there myself.   Three days in New Orleans prior to a weeklong Carribbean cruise almost did me in a few years ago.   A person can have too much fun apparently.

Tuffythepug

[pennerblue]

So here I am in the 15th floor of the New Orleans Sheraton, 2 blocks from Bourbon St!  Unfortunately I had a mediocre dinner tonight at a supposedly "famous" restaurant, Deanie's seafood.  It was all fried and tasted like batter.  I'm sure I'll have better luck tomorrow. 

On to more serious matters...

I went on a tour of Katrina damage today.  It is unbelievable in scope.  Mile after mile of homes that were under anywhere from 2 to 12 feet of water.  It is estimated that there were 1500 fatalities.  The population of the city is currently estimated to be at 60% of what it was 3 years ago.  We went to the 9th ward, the hardest hit area.  Absolutely devastating.  What is encouraging is that the levee system is being updated through a major renovation project.  It was very interesting to hear the local perspective on things.  The more expensive homes have been cleaned up/or rebuilt.  Lower income areas are redeveloping at a much slower pace, but there is some rebuilding.

This is a VERY complex system of flood protection that has been built over decades and involves many different governmental agencies.  When it happened, it seemed to be easy to place blame.  Having experienced this first hand, I have a greater appreciation for its complexity.  One thing I didn't understand is that the "storm surge" came in at almost 20 feet and because of the lay of the land it comes at New Orleans from every direction.  The Mississippi River was not the problem, it was the drainage canals linking to the gulf and from Lake Ponchatrain (to the north) which is directly connected to the gulf.  When I get home, I'll post some photos if anyone is interested.

[pennerblue]

Woah...I just found out that the Black Crowes are playing at the House of Blues TUESDAY NIGHT!
The bad news...tix are $50.
Hmmm....

[Randy_R]

I didn't see Brennan's for breakfast mentioned. Eggs Obrien followed by bannanas Foster, and lots of hot coffee.. The best.

Here's a NO group that I'd love to see live, The Legendary Balsa Wood Flyers, I found them on the internet. http://www.myspace.com/balsawoodflyers 
Regular performers at the Kerry Irish Pub on Decatur St. http://www.kerryirishpub.com/

Balsa wood Flyers
Saturday, November 22, 2008
Starting at 5:00 PM

I don't know if you'll be there until next saturday, but it looks like The Kerry has music most nights.

Here's another down home spot with music if you want to get away from the city. http://www.therivershacktavern.com/

[Queequeg]

TONIGHT: Sister to the Neville Brothers, Charmaine Neville, an R&B vocalist, has a band that plays Snug Harbor shows most Mondays.
626 frenchman Street.
Snug Harbor is a great club, and Charmaine Neville is a great performer. You are likely going to see more locals/fewer tourists @ Snug Harbor (which is always an added bonus).
Charmaine Neville Youtube
Have a great time. Report back.

[NotRevGDavis]

HELLO! Beignets at Cafe Du Mond- always my first stop. Powdered sugar like snowdrifts on the ground. There is a place near CDM towards the flea market that has great food but I have never thought to get the name. Look for a huge pot of boiling crawdads in the front window. Bar on the right looking in.
And if you're a beer drinker and like a full body dark two words- Turbo Dog. Made by Abita Brewing in Abita Springs just outside of NO. They might also be brewing their Pecan beer.

[Queequeg]

HELLO! Beignets at Cafe Du Mond- always my first stop. Powdered sugar like snowdrifts on the ground. There is a place near CDM towards the flea market that has great food but I have never thought to get the name. Look for a huge pot of boiling crawdads in the front window. Bar on the right looking in.
And if you're a beer drinker and like a full body dark two words- Turbo Dog. Made by Abita Brewing in Abita Springs just outside of NO. They might also be brewing their Pecan beer.

Yes, Abita Brewing makes great beer, and Abita Springs often have live music there too. Local bands, but they are really good.

[D15LSU]

I live about 50 miles WNW from NOLA.  In my younger days I enjoyed making a trip now and then to The Big Easy but as I've gotten older . . . . I enjoy going to the mountains and relaxing.  NOLA can be a lot of fun if you follow a few simple rules.  Hate to sound negative but  . . . . have fun but use that thing setting on top of your shoulders.

1.  Be careful and DO NOT go down in side streets.
2.  Stay around a crowd.
3.  Check out "The Cat's Meow", forgot the address but it's in the Quarters (google it).
4.  Have dinner at K Paul's and try the blackened tuna steak, medium rare.
5.  I personally do not recommend a tour of the 9th ward.  Too much heart ache there for me to be "touring".
6.  DO NOT play the games the street urchins will try to pull you into like "Hey man, I bet you $5 I know where you go those shoes".  Of course if you fall for it you will owe them $5 when you say "oh yea, tell me" and they answer back "you got them on yo feet".  If you play and don't pay, hope you like pain.
7.  If you are going to drink enough to be drunk, have someone with you that is not.

NOLA is a very unique and special place and has a culture all its own but can be very unkind to visitors that don't follow a few simple rules.

One other thing.  The streets in the french quarter have one name but they change to a different name once they cross Canal Street.  Can be a nightmare driving in that part of town.  Get a city map before hand and look it over or rent a car with GPS.

[tuffythepug]

D15LSU
Now we have it straight from someone who should know.    Although I've been there a few times and had way too much fun every time, I've never felt threatened physically.  That may be because I've usually travelled in a loose group of 4 to 6 people every time and we watched out for one another.  The scam with the shoes is an old one.   An older, wiser traveler clued me in to that one before my first visit about 6 or 7 years ago.   

  on the Cats Meow.  I'll say no more about that one.     

As I'm sure you have seen, many people, when faced with the kind of wild debauchery that can take place in the Quarter, forget all semblance of moderation and common sense. That's a recipe for distaster.

As someone who lives in the vicinity are you familiar with some of the places I had recommended:
(Mulate's, Mandina's, Mothers, the Rock N Bowl etc. ?  How about the Famous Door on Bourbon Street ?That's one of my favorites for live music.   Mulate's too.

[pennerblue]

5.  I personally do not recommend a tour of the 9th ward.  Too much heart ache there for me to be "touring".

I completely see where your coming from, BUT I was touring the entire levee system with a group of water resource folks.  I'm a civil/environmental engineer.  It was extremely educational.  I did feel "creepy" touring the area, but I wasn't gawking, I was trying to learn how to avoid a similar situation in the future.  I also saw Cedar Rapids, IA this summer which was devastated by floods.  One of the bars had a cynical and honest phrase spray painted on the wall "We hope you are enjoying seeing our misery" (or something along those lines).  It hit me hard.  It also makes me put things into perspective,  an important one that I try to share with my engineering students.


As for all the recommendations for music and food...it's obvious that I need to spend more than a few days here.  It is an awesome city.

Penner

[guitom]

Get yourself a po'boy at Mothers.  The Debris (I think that's it) Po'boy is the one they're famous for.  (Oops, I didn't notice tuffy covered this.  Oh well, I second that emotion)

[pennerblue]

Ok...so tonight's my last night...but I have to present tomorrow so it will be mellow.

The Red Fish Grill on Bourbon is excellent!
Deanie's nearby was mediocre.
Mother's (ham and biscuit and grits and debris--stewed beef) was awesome.
House of Blues (Black Crowes, see other post!)=awesome.
Louisiana Music Factory (CD store across from HOB) is very cool.
Friztle's (spelling) European Jazz Pub was great.  German beer hall type seating, you sit at any open table with whoever was there first.  We sit down across some people from Plymouth, Michigan (town of about 30,000) where I lived in 1987 for a year.
Lafitte's Blacksmith Bar (waaaayyyy down on Bourbon where many are afraid to venture).  Low ceiling, lighted only by candles, supposedly one of the oldest bars in the US.  Very cool.  A guy playing R&B on a piano and has done it for the last 10 years.

Thank's for all of your advice.

I went to a small guitar shop called International Vintage Guitars.  Very limited selection.  But they had a cool 1964 Gibson LGO (hog top).  It was really beat up.  He was asking $900.  I did some internet research later and found that most people would pay maybe half of that.  I didn't go back to haggle (not my style).  His prices on new Martins were very reasonable.  Played a 00-15 and loved it.

Earlier I griped that the Black Crowes tickets were $50.  Perspective is a funny thing.  To me, a rural WI boy, that's a lot of money.  Had dinner last night with a woman from West Palm Beach.  She said her freinds just paid over $100 to see the Crowes.  I got back to the hotel and in the elevator struck up a conversation.  Said I was going to see the Crowes.  The young woman in the elevator said "Yeh, I was thinking about going, but $50 is a lot of money, I think I can see them next week for $30 (she sounded like she was from the midwest).

Now I'm rambling...anyway...thanks again for your advice.

I highly recommend New Orleans.  It has to be one of the most diverse and unique (and original) cultural spots in the US.

Penner

[Danny]

 Well I waited too long to post this, but I was going to sugggest...Don't Go.....
        Been there, don't care to go back. NOT
                                                         Danny

[Tycho]

Is that wonderful record shop in the Quarter still there?  Can't remember the name or the street, but it's right near the river.  (Decatur St.?)

[pennerblue]

Is that wonderful record shop in the Quarter still there?  Can't remember the name or the street, but it's right near the river.  (Decatur St.?)

Louisiana Music Factory across from the House of Blues?  Lots of regional music? Yep.  I got some nice jazz there.

Also in the French Quarter was a shop (can't remember the name) that sold autographed items of all kinds (guitars, albums, photos, baseballs, etc.)  Fun to look at but ridiculously overpriced.