Hey guys,
about to atempt to glue this back down. any suggestions on a technique and which glue/epoxy to use?
thanks.
Tim
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Some guys use superglue but I find it toooooo messy.Use a little wood glue and masking tape it in place,overnite should do it.
Sorry to hijack your thread, but on a related note, I'd like to repair my Tak. (My beater guitar - went twice round the world with me and survived; got home, and someone knocked it off the sofa and died - the guitar, not the person!). It's not worth anything, but it does have some serious sentimental value...
Basically the neck's split an needs regluing. Suggestions I've heard (not necessarily reliable, I might add) varied from DIY store wood glue to superglue to animal glue (whatever that is) to anique repair glue (???)... personally I have no glue or clue (sorry sorry sorry!).
Here's a few pics....
Dan
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Quote from: mrrinse on January 17, 2006, 07:31:29 PM
Sorry to hijack your thread, but on a related note, I'd like to repair my Tak. (My beater guitar - went twice round the world with me and survived; got home, and someone knocked it off the sofa and died - the guitar, not the person!). It's not worth anything, but it does have some serious sentimental value...
Basically the neck's split an needs regluing. Suggestions I've heard (not necessarily reliable, I might add) varied from DIY store wood glue to superglue to animal glue (whatever that is) to anique repair glue (???)... personally I have no glue or clue (sorry sorry sorry!).
Here's a few pics....
Dan
just a tip, you may get more responces, (and more specific replys to your topic) if your start your own thread. thats some serious damage and may take more than a couple of posts..
just a thought :)
This is a serious neck break. Not uncommon. The key to a good repair is to make sure that the parts fit back together tight. Most often there are some small splinters of wood that need to be removed inside the break to get a tight fit. This is critical. A poorly fitting glue joint will be week. A good fit one can ans should end up stronger that the wood. I use Titebond II for this type of a repair. You can get this at a hardware store. Make a clamp cull to fit the neck, you may need two or thee. they should fit the radius of the neck and be padded. Cork sheets 1/8 thick work well. Do a dry run clamping the break with no glue to make sure you have everthing you need, you clams work well and you can hold the split tight with your clamps. Now the glue. Work it all the way into the split. Use a thin flexable knife but make sure you do not damage or move any wood around that will keep the joint apart. Flexing the crack open and closed will move the glue into the split. Clamp. Remove all the squeeze out glue when it is wet and soft. Keep clamped for 24 hours. Now clean up the mess and put some finish on. The finish is a whole other issue. Good luck send photos of the repair.
Titebond II will work well for the neck binding as well. Clean out as much of the old glue as you can first. You need surfaces for any glue to work. I would stay away from and cyano-acrylate glues ( crazy glue ) If you get that on the finish you are finished!
In reply to the binding coming up that started this thread. Superglue will work, but it is completely unforgiving. You absolutely have to get it right the first time. And be sure to mask off all the surrounding areas as Superglue does not 'clean up' after a spill.
E. Shoaf
Thanks for the replies and good advice, and apologies again for the hi-jack. Perhaps I should migrate this thread to a new one.
Yup, it's not a pretty break, especially since it's where the truss rod terminates (at the tip of the break around halfway up the 1st fret). I'm not too concerned about the finish / look - I may even scrub the neck down to satin.
In case Titebond II isn't available under the same brand name in the UK (which I doubt), any chance someone could describe the type / composition so I might find a similar alternative.
I was also advised that it might be a good idea, in addition to the clamping, to clamp from top to bottom - i.e. head stock to end pin (possibly removing the machine heads), using a rachet and a strap of some kind (presumably to simulate the tension the strings will add).
Forgive my ignorance, but what is a cull clamp? Thanks,
Dan
For the binding I agree with Rob. clamp with titebond. You could also use epoxy, not superglue.
For that neck................clamping is your problem along with the space taken up by the glue. Try to pry up the break to reveal as much surface area as possible. Try to scrape away material and still keep a consistant surface to surface contact. Titebond II will work fine BUT heres one time where I would consider Gorilla Glue. Clamping is less important and it fills uneven space.
Good thinking, Peter, that Gorilla Glue expands and would give a sure fill bond!
p.s. Ouch!
Yup, thats what I call neck relief.......
"Yup, thats what I call neck relief......."
Ouch ^_^
What's particularly odd is that it only fell over from standing (not on a stand) onto a carpeted floor, and it was tuned down at the time - probably something like CGDGAD. Whilst I'm not saying that's either that minimal or the kind of treatment I would normally let me guitars be subject to (it wasn't me! :EM>), I was a little suprised at the extent of the damage. Since it sheared at the truss, I wonder if it being tuned down helped caused the injury (extra truss rod strength).
As I say, it's only a beater (G230 Takamine) (or rather, beaten), so I'm not too worried about it - except for the sentimental value. A furniture maker friend of mine suggested I turn it into a table...
Any idea on the Gorilla Glue / Titebone glue compositions / descriptions so I might find UK brand alternatives?
Thanks again,
Dan
Another pic, in case it helps:
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and one final pic (tension is off the strings at the moment, btw)
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Gorilla Glue is exceptionally strong, but expands 3 or 4 times when it dries. I know you can sand the excess, but I would still use Titebond II.
Ask your furniture building friend for some wood glue.
:POL>*****CAUTION***** :POL>
I've had several attemped repairs to headstock brought to me to fix and make better that they used Gorilla Glue on,this stuff SUCKS and is impossoble to remove once put on.I would suggest before doing a repair of this nature to bring it to a repairperson.I know that you guys who have said to use the Gorilla crap know what your doing BUT most people don't and if done wrong you might as well throw the thing out as burning it in a fire is TOXIC.
I'm done now,back to you regular programming. :GRN>
The G glue wipes off with water at first.
Doesn't relly matter. Whatever works. In England its probably yellow glue. Polyurethane gluefor the gorilla stuff. Yeh, it expands alot to fill. I only use it when a situation is kinda wierd or desperate. Glued a bridge down once with it..........due to space under it. the sound actually improved on that one.
No matter how good the craftsman/woodworker, each shop is so different and the materials and methods are always debateable. Thats a high tension area. Lots of torque there.
The idea of cutting off the neck and reattaching so its perpendicular to the guitar body. attaching that to a base. Adding glass for a top........nice table.
http://www.frets.com shows how to do repairs like this.
Clamp Cull, Just a padded block shaped to the serface you want to clamp. Protects the area and distributes the load. see photo
I would not use the G Glue. Titebone II is an aliphatic resin glue producing a type 2 bond defined as meeting an ansi/hpva standard for strength and water resistance, It is not water proof just resistant. You asked!
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Wow! Thanks for all the great answers. Really appreciate the effort, detail, expertise, time and effort taken to help me out on this!
Dan