I recently acquired an Epiphone 1957 SJ-200 with a 12" fretboard radius.  I got a great deal on it preowned and plan to install a K&K pure or Schatten HFN and remove the stock LR Baggs VTC element bronze undersaddle system.

Once I remove the undersaddle wire, I'll need to either shim or replace the saddle and I'm having a hard time locating a saddle that specifies the radius and the ones that are specified seem to be 16".

I am comfortable sanding the bottom for height but no idea how to shape a radius on a fully compensated saddle...would be easier if I can just find a 12" bone saddle from somewhere. 

Any sources?

Not cheap, but good quality IME: https://guitarpartsandmore.com/products-2.php?Gibson-reg-Style-Drop-In-Guitar-Saddles-with-12-Radius-37

Cheaper if you feel crafty and wanna make your own. I should note that I've bought their bone blanks, not their drop-in, ready-made saddles. But I would think the quality would be similar.

 I've been using GuitarPartsAndMore for years, back when ivory was legal. In fact, I need to place an order w/ him for a bunch of bone blanks. David picks great materials. I definitely recommend the blanks, they're like $5. And, you're going to have to shape the saddle anyway if you really want it correct. It's not ideal to buy a 12" radius saddle for a 12" radius fretboard. There's a common misconception about that. The string spacing at the nut is not the same as the spacing at the saddle so you will get uneven (possibly even problematic) string action if the saddle radius is not wider. Either the middle strings become too high or the outer strings too low. Also, if you're making the correct radius, might as well intonate the saddle to your particular guitar and string choice. I've personally never been satisfied with any of the drop-in compensated saddles. They are trying to be a one-size-fits-all so they're never actually great. And, with a blank, you can get the saddle thickness dialed in exact too, which allows the saddle to be snug and that can affect the quality of sound in a good way as it means much better contact on all 3 sides.

 Disclaimer; I'm a bit of a perfectionist about this stuff and intonation issues really jump out at me so my recommendation may be more than what's reasonable for someone who just wants to drop in a new saddle. But, for $5 in bone, a sheet of sandpaper, and the cost of a cheap hand file, you can make a perfect saddle.

Quote from: B0WIE on August 26, 2026, 10:21:40 AMBut, for $5 in bone, a sheet of sandpaper, and the cost of a cheap hand file, you can make a perfect saddle.

And a lot of patience if new to it. It's the preferred method though. As Bowie says above, the drop-in saddles will never be AS perfect as one made from a blank. The fit, front to back, is crucial, and some older guitars' saddle slots may have widened over time, meaning the drop-in replacement will not fit as snuggly as it should.

Any saddle work I've done prior has only been minor fitment on the sides and length or adjusting the height.  Not sure about doing the intonation.  When I wanted to raise the action on my Larrivee, I just ordered a compensated saddle from the Larrivee proshop. 

I have a set of guitar radius guages and the current saddle fits perfect with a 12" guage.  The specs on the guitar indicate a 12" radius on fretboard.  I did find it odd that many bone, tusq brands didn't actually specify the radius'.  Would you be suggesting that a flatter radius may work just fine, supposed a 16"?