Picked up a Sears Roebuck parlor that looks like a Harmony. I think it's in the original chipboard case. Almost no fret wear, action is good and top is flat. I would like to clean up some of the dust on it and generally spit shine it. I can measure the gauge of strings. It actually projects quite well. Build year approximately 1970. What could I use to clean without damaging it?
Quote from: rockstar_not on May 24, 2019, 09:30:44 PM
Picked up a Sears Roebuck parlor that looks like a Harmony. I think it's in the original chipboard case. Almost no fret wear, action is good and top is flat. I would like to clean up some of the dust on it and generally spit shine it. I can measure the gauge of strings. It actually projects quite well. Build year approximately 1970. What could I use to clean without damaging it?
Start with a lightly dampened cloth across the entire instrument. Go over the finished parts with a guitar cleaner/polish. I thin like to use an appropriate oil lightly on the bare wood parts (board and bridge) but it's not critical. It just looks nicer. I don't like to use cleaners on the board, just a damp cloth for cleaning. If you oil the tuners, wipe off as much oil as possible after as it will attract dust.
Quote from: rockstar_not on May 24, 2019, 09:30:44 PM
Picked up a Sears Roebuck parlor that looks like a Harmony. I think it's in the original chipboard case. Almost no fret wear, action is good and top is flat. I would like to clean up some of the dust on it and generally spit shine it. I can measure the gauge of strings. It actually projects quite well. Build year approximately 1970. What could I use to clean without damaging it?
Quite a find, would love to see pics. 12 fret?
But just here to state don't use "Virtuoso Polish and Cleaner (http://virtuosopolish.com/virtuoso-premium-polish-cleaner/)". I regretted putting it on my polished satin OO because it put an artificially too shinny gloss on it that I couldn't remove. The seller admits that it reacts chemically with the finish which isn't what you'd want to do to a 50 year old finish.
I had a 1940s Gibson archtop once and J&J paste wax didn't seem to do it any harm. . .
Quote from: jpmist on May 25, 2019, 11:15:32 AM
Quite a find, would love to see pics. 12 fret?
But just here to state don't use "Virtuoso Polish and Cleaner (http://virtuosopolish.com/virtuoso-premium-polish-cleaner/)". I regretted putting it on my polished satin OO because it put an artificially too shinny gloss on it that I couldn't remove. The seller admits that it reacts chemically with the finish which isn't what you'd want to do to a 50 year old finish.
I had a 1940s Gibson archtop once and J&J paste wax didn't seem to do it any harm. . .
Thx for posting that. I was suspect of that product and hearing that it can chemically react with certain finishes is concerning.
The floating bridge needs to be replaced. Grooves are worn into the wood at different depths. I'm thinking of buying a plain acoustic guitar bridge slotted for a saddle, and trying to find a saddle compensated for 24" scale length (it's exactly 12" to the octave fret wire from the nut).
Here are pics.
(https://i.imgur.com/GAhO38T.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/LrD0vz6.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/0pZ2CN1.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/qwFlDF4.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/blfFH8F.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/1Qcgt0G.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/tZnBHmx.jpg)
As you can see in the photos, the fret-board is varnished. I'm not really concerned about it. If I keep this thing I will probably end up wearing through the varnish - I'm taking a liking to smaller guitars (really been enjoying the little 3/4 size FG Jr in my signature, but the nut width is tiny on that. this thing has an adult-sized nut at 1 3/4" width, while the FG Jr has a 1 5/8" width. Makes a difference.
The floating bridge needs to be replaced. Grooves are worn into the wood at different depths. I'm thinking of buying a plain acoustic guitar bridge slotted for a saddle, and trying to find a saddle compensated for 24" scale length (it's exactly 12" to the octave fret wire from the nut).
Cool. That looks like it's in really great shape! Given the "reverse-wound" D string I'm guessing the new hobby guitar got put under the bed for a few decades.
Maybe that notched in bridge can be salvaged with a shim under it? Thinking something about as thick as a wood coffee stirrer. That way you could carve in your own string height and intonation yourself?
Quote from: B0WIE on May 26, 2019, 12:13:20 AM
Thx for posting that. I was suspect of that product and hearing that it can chemically react with certain finishes is concerning.
It could well be a case of "your mileage may vary" I applied it over an ok glossing job of my satin finish and it just didn't look right. To have a high shine over a semigloss seemed odd.
But I was quite surprised and disappointed that no cleaner or solvent I dared use put a dent in that weird gloss, hence my warning. Still, on their web site amidst all the wildly positive testimonials, there is the admission that it reacts chemically to a finish thus isn't reversible.
I made an improvised bridge last night out of a Home Depot oak flooring sample (sawed off the tongue end and even compensated it). Dang guitar sounds really interesting with rust for wound strings!
I've got an old Sears guitar with the same "atomic" Sears logo on it.
That does make it an early 70's vintage by Harmony.
I stuck (double stick tape) a gold foil repro pickup on it recently for fun, and it is!
I clean mine with naptha and oil the fretboard with lemon oil.
Oh, and I glued up a crack with Elmer's wood glue.
I probably shouldn't have said that on here. I'm sure someone will be appalled. :laughin:
This it? Check out the prices.
Mine's on the opposite page and I think I can safely say
it's almost doubled in value over the years....
:roll
(http://harmony.demont.net/catalogs/Sears/1970_01.jpg)
I think it's the one on the bottom with a price of $17.95!