to crack the headstock veneer when changing out a nut. I finally got around to changing the strings on Pete (I don't go through them very fast since my hands are cold and dry, and the Alchemys last a long time). I noticed a small crack in the headstock but it looks like it is only in the ebony veneer directly behind the nut. It is even a little shiny, as if whoever tried to polish it out a bit. I guess I shouldn't worry about it, Pete is perfect in every other way. Sigh.
Deb
You need to love him in spite of his flaws. Just like real life I suppose?
:D
Quoteto crack the headstock veneer when changing out a nut. I finally got around to changing the strings on Pete (I don't go through them very fast since my hands are cold and dry, and the Alchemys last a long time). I noticed a small crack in the headstock but it looks like it is only in the ebony veneer directly behind the nut. It is even a little shiny, as if whoever tried to polish it out a bit. I guess I shouldn't worry about it, Pete is perfect in every other way. Sigh.
Deb
A parlour that I bought from Steve Lawson had deep gouges in the headstock behind the nut. I don't know how common it is, but I guess it does happen.
Deb I've seen this when people try to pop a nut to replace it.I don't remember seeing it there when it past thru me.
QuoteI don't remember seeing it there when it past thru me.
It wasn't.
Deb
Sometimes the finish adheres to the nut over time and causes tiny stress cracks when the nut is removed. Once the guitar is 40 years old no one will ever notice!
E. Shoaf
Deb,
I thought that you had said that Pete has a bone nut. That sounds like the original nut was replaced. I could be wrong, but I think that Larrivee nuts are typically TUSQ, not bone. Any damage could/must have happened then.
Unlrob, am I wrong on the nut material?
:unsure: Albert
Quote
A parlour that I bought from Steve Lawson had deep gouges in the headstock behind the nut. I don't know how common it is, but I guess it does happen.
!!! ??? !!!!
what kind of person would do this YET AGAIN?
!!! ??? !!!
QuoteDeb,
I thought that you had said that Pete has a bone nut. That sounds like the original nut was replaced. I could be wrong, but I think that Larrivee nuts are typically TUSQ, not bone. Any damage could/must have happened then.
Unlrob, am I wrong on the nut material?
:unsure: Albert
It has been replaced twice--once before I bought it. It had a bone nut on it when I bought it, but I don't recall any finish chipping at that time. Then the nut was replaced again, because it was too low. I think it happened at that time.
Deb
I did see some products in the Stew-Mac catalog that look like they could repair it so you couldn't see it anymore. When I've read several finishing books and have a better idea of what is involved, I might tackle it. I think I'll get a pawn shop special to practice on first.
Deb
I have always had good luck making bone saddles - its fairly straightforward.
Making a bone nut is different in my view with a couple of potential pitfalls
- damage to the headstock
- slots cut too deep, too shallow, not wide enough, too wide, binding, etc - OFF!
The file set for cutting the slots can be pricy too, especially if you wont be using them often.
I cut one or two and while they always seemed to look good, I usually missed the slot height by at least a little..
The nut I have now is very good. I'm talking about eventually repairing the chip in the headstock. :)
I do eventually want to learn to shape a bone nut. I would practice on plastic first, I think.
Deb
Deb anytime your ready I'll send a care package.
One trick I've learned over the years is to score directly behind the nut with a razor blade sometime's finish and even superglue end up there.Then I pop the nut,with score line no chipping.I just removed a nut on a Larriveewith this technic,after scoring I taped the nut out from the side.
Rob,
Send the package any time. Also, a list of books you recommend.
:D
Deb
It does make sense to loosen around the nut with a sharp blade first. The one in the Guild binds and breaks strings regularly. I'm not up to trying a 12-string as my first nut shaping job, but I do want to learn how to do it. It seems like we're destined to live miles away from any good guitar techs, so I want to learn all I can.
Deb package will be on its way.I'll get you a list of books.On the 12 string a trick to use is to take a piece of paper and draw it thru the nut slot,this will clear away all the built up crudyou can also use a swab with naptha on it.If the slots are kinda black looking this is what binding the strings.
Order most of the books you see in stewmac catolog.Get some good nut files,get a cheapy guitar to pratice on.As always I'm a phone call away or a PM.
I told you I'd make a repairperson out of you.Its easy after you mess up a couple of 50 time's. B)
Don't forget ther are a bunch of repair peole out there Like the kids on APM I'm sure will also be glad to help.
If you are afraid to go free hand then..
score the nut a few times with razor blade at each location for string.
Masking tape both sides until only the gap is shown (where the knife marks are), file it down with a small flat file (works fine for me), i start off with a triangle one.
sand down the bottom of the nut to set height.
file off all sharp edges.
restring.
The string spacing ruler at the Stew-Mac site looked pretty cool. The nut files are kinda pricey, but I still might try to get a set. I also thought about ordering their "economy blanks" to practice on. The way I see it, I'll work on setups on cheap pawnshop/2nd hand store guitars. Any work on them will be an improvement. I'll work my way up to better guitars.
Deb
Think of the file set as an investment in you.Its well worty the price. :)