I just obtained a nice Martin 00-16DBM with a slotted headstock. This guitar is cool beyond words, but the previous owner had not changed the strings in the five years she owned it (she said she only played it an hour or so in that time) :o . I figure it is time to do this and will be also carving a new bone saddle now too.
Tell me about restringing a slotted headstock. Anyone have a good set of instructions or a website that is illustrates this?
Many thanks in advance...
This aught to do it.
http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/Musician/G...otheadstr1.html (http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/Musician/Guitar/Setup/SteelStrings/Stringing/slotheadstr1.html)
Congrats on a cool new guitar.
-josh
That's exactly how I do my classicals, it's the only clean way to hold the string in tension without them slipping out.
BTW, becareful when you cut your strings, make sure they are short enough and vertical, so they dont cut your headstock and look clean that is.
That was kind of weird grammar, oh well.
one small detail question from the Frank Ford site:
how do you gauge how much total "slack" to leave in the string as you begin winding?
how many windings should you target having in total. I saw one that said one addition winding turn after "looping under" and saw another saying three windings after that step?
also, when initially inserting the string into the roller, do you bend a 90 degree angle to help it lock?
THANKS AGAIN
Being able to tell how much slack you need takes experience. Which means you just have to get in there and do it. Typically you would want about four full windings on the post at minimum.
E. Shoaf
I have seen recommendation for four windings minimum and have also seen a suggested one winding.
I did my first last night and wound up with closer to just one. Though I have been expecting an catastrophic explosive failure, so far it has held just fine..
The quiestion I have now is when do you clip the excess string? Before or after winding. My guess is before since it gets in the way while winding.
Like you said, experience will gradually build as I learn.
Thanks to each responder - this forum and its members are a treasure...
There are 2 methods I use.1 is the four finger rule,pull the string to lenth add four fingers to it clip and install.2 Pull the string to lenth,at the fifth fretraise the string up to your second joint of your pointer finger,pass the string thru the hole wind away.Clip off as close to the post as possible.
I've had good luck on my 000-16SGT with just bending 90 degree opposite bends (Z bend?) on each side of the post and then winding 2 1/2 to 4 turns with no loop under. 4 or 5 string changes and no slippage yet. I try to keep the strings as straight as possible from nut to post. I also trim after getting to tension. I read somewhere that cutting before on some strings will allow slippage of the inner core.
YMMV - Jack
My advice....not very technical, but here goes:
Use the long lasting (coated, even) strings on your slotted.....you'll change strings less often that way.
Although not as bad as in steel string since they stretch less, make sure you dont have only one (especially the unwound strings) loop, more is fine as long as it doesn't hit the peghead.
and if you are maticulous, you make sure all the string wind towards outside or all inside (although if you do it this way you MAY hit the peghead).